A taste of China
Tourism from China is booming, and it’s making a huge impact on the Middle East’s F&B sector. Caterer surveys the scene
In 2001, the number of hotel guests received in Dubai from China and Hong Kong was 14,000; by 2010 it had risen to 172,000. That’s an increase of 1,128%, and it’s a fair reflection on what’s going on around the region, and the world: Chinese tourism is increasing exponentially.
While visitors to Dubai from North America outnumber this by far, the percentage has only increased by 376% from 115,715 to 551,198 over the last 10 years; and European visitors have grown only by 146% (from 953,064 to 2,342,698).
And whether trips are made for business or pleasure, there’s no doubt that it’s having a huge impact on the foodservice industries in the region.
While Dubai is a cosmopolitan city and already has a lot of outlets, other countries boast just a few, such as Jordan which has only 10 standalone Chinese restaurants.
But Eliana Janineh, general manager of Jordan’s Restaurant Association admits: “We are witnessing a growth according to increasing tourist demands. Just last week we classified a new Chinese restaurant in Petra”.
Onwards and upwards
This increased demand from Chinese visitors is something many chefs in the region have noticed too.
“There has been a dramatic growth in Chinese visitors to the country, particularly to Dubai,” says Glen Fernandes, executive chef at the Arabian Courtyard Hotel and Spa, Dubai.
“Most of them are tourists but a sizeable number are visiting for business purposes also. We have noticed the influx because we have provided catering for lots of events for Chinese tour groups.
“Our menu at Silk Route restaurant includes native Chinese specialities, so it is mainly appreciated by Chinese guests, but Europeans like it too.”
Even though the signature dish on the menu is a sizzling black pepper lobster, Fernandes believes dishes don’t have to be strictly authentic to be good.
“When Marco Polo brought the noodle to Europe in the 12th Century [a belief among many, but not proven in any source], it gradually turned into spaghetti. Likewise here, where there are a lot of Southeast Asian people, many Chinese dishes are tampered with and Indian spices find their way into them and it turns into more of a fusion food.”
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Doing it for the kids
Another chef who has noticed a change in Chinese restaurants is Paul Hage, executive chef at the Metropolitan Hotel, Dubai, which is the new home to Summer Place (originally Summer Palace) – the oldest Chinese restaurant in Dubai.
“We were originally open in 1987 at the Metropolitan Hotel Dubai, and we are still serving very traditional Chinese food. The only difference now is that we also have a bar and lounge section serving a much lighter menu. We serve traditional dishes, but in a new way – like finger Peking duck. We’ve made Chinese food trendy.
“Even though the location of the restaurant has moved to somewhere new, we still have our regular guests from the old restaurant coming here, so business is going well. The décor is more elegant, but we’re trying to get the young people in too.
“Thankfully there is a constancy about Chinese cuisine, and it’s one of the reasons it’s proven so popular in the Middle East.”
Money matters
In the face of global food costs rising, constancy is something that’s welcomed with opened arms.
“There is always a supply of good, raw Chinese materials, especially compared to, say, Australian, French or English produce,” says Hage. “It’s good value and it’s always fresh.
“The ingredients are cheaper too, it’s not like we’re having to serve lots of caviar and foie gras and lobster. The market is still upside down but I’d say prices have gone up about 8-10% in the last couple of years. But that’s compared to around 18-20% for French foods.”
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Molecular moments
But the increased cost of international ingredients isn’t going to stop Eddie Sim Leong, Chinese chef de cuisine at Shanghai Chic Chinese Restaurant, Mövenpick Ibn Battuta Gate Hotel, Dubai, from being innovative with his menus.
“I create modern Chinese cuisine, and for this I use traditional techniques and ingredients, mixed in with ingredients like foie gras and saffron.
“For Chinese new year I have prepared a special menu featuring dishes like roasted duck in foie gras, and our signature dim sum features saffron seafood dumplings.
“I do try and create innovative dishes, and have experimented with molecular cuisine using salmon roe, and we change the menu every three months.”
Doha’s development
It’s not just in Dubai that this development in Chinese cuisine has been seen. The representation in Qatar is improving dramatically, and will continue to do so in the coming years due to an influx of Chinese construction companies and an increase in corporate travellers, Doha restaurant managers and chefs say.
And with the arrival of stylish Chinese restaurant Hakkasan in Doha in June 2012, the cuisine will begin to take on a new image in the capital.
Eric Leprevost, general manager of Hospitality Development Company, responsible for international restaurant brand Tse Yang at the Pearl Qatar has noticed the development of Chinese cuisine in the city.
“The change is happening now with Tse Yang,” he says, “but also with Hakkasan arriving shortly [it will continue to develop]. Chinese restaurants are starting to be seen as an all-in experience, and no longer just an impulse food experience.
“We have changed the traditional experience of Chinese food and its service by introducing the first Chinese lounge with a DJ, and the dim sum pass-around. We also serve a traditional Chinese brunch accompanied by a jazz trio.
“We have implemented these simple measures to change the view of a Chinese restaurant from a quick fix to a true culinary experience that embodies all senses,” continues Leprevost.
“The décor at Tse Yang is a complete change from the current restaurant standard. In fact, our restaurant has won several design awards, the latest one being the International Property Award for interior design.”
Austin Jun Yang, chef de partie at Ruby Wu’s, located at Ramada Plaza Doha has seen a real growth in demand recently too, which he hopes will help raise the bar when it comes down to chefs creating authentic dishes.
“Ruby Wu’s does hold its own year-on-year,” he reveales.
“With more hotels being built and more Chinese businesses partnering on steel works and construction in Qatar, there is definitely a demand for more authentic Chinese foods.
“We are hoping that this trend will continue and from what we can see, there is definitely a shift in customer expectations away from the ‘Eurocentric’ idea of Chinese food that originally entered Qatar from the north, towards a more authentic taste from China itself.”
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Chain reaction
One international company that’s sailing along on the wave is Chowking, whose menu consists of about 60/40% Chinese/Asian dishes.
Over last year the Filipino company has reported sales growth at the rate of 12%, and managers are looking forward to opening another two outlets in the Middle East in Q1 2012 – one in Mushrif Mall in Abu Dhabi, and one in Oman. These two will join the 17 other outlets in the UAE.
“Our target for 2012 is the expansion of stores outside of the UAE, across the Middle East region,” reveals general manager Bunny Malik.
“We wanted to consolidate our position in the UAE first, but we feel now is the right time to open our type of operation in Oman. We have found the market for Chinese and Far East cuisine has been increasing, especially in Muscat, which is enjoyed by locals and western expats as well as south East Asians.
Our primary surveys have supported this fact. Moreover, we have found that spending for eating out is on a continuous increase.”
Malik thinks one of the reasons Chowking is so successful is because of the price point. “One of the trends we have noticed emerge in the last couple of years is that customers are becoming more price sensitive. Chowking makes sure that the posting and pricing is not high.”
So it seems there is plenty of scope for new business opportunity in the Middle East. The increasing demand for better quality food and more choice is stimulating chefs to create new and more innovative menus.
With brands like Hakkasan paving the way with design, it seems Chinese cuisine is poised on a springboard, ready to be propelled to new heights in 2012.