Cuisine Focus: Arabic

Some of the region’s top Arabic chefs explain to Lucy Taylor how local cuisine is starting to win over international palates, one forkful at a time

The issue of defining ‘Arabic cuisine’ is a tough one.

No matter how similar many of the dishes served in the Middle East and North Africa are on paper, the region is thick with cultural idiosyncrasies, where families hand down their takes on recipes and chefs are influenced by local availability and tradition. It’s a melting pot of flavours, sums up Wafaei Al Zaham – chef de cuisine of Atayeb at Abu Dhabi’s Yas Viceroy Hotel.

“Arabic cuisine, as we know it today, is the result of a combination of richly diverse cuisines, incorporating Levantine, Yemeni, Indian and Persian cuisine – with many stalwart ingredients not in fact indigenous to the Persian Gulf region,” he explains.

Ali Hussain, executive Oriental chef at Al Nafoorah, located in Jumeirah Emirates Towers, adds: “Arabic cuisine incorporates different regional flavours from the Arab world, from Lebanon to Morocco. The style is rich in special flavour, with a variety of cold and hot dishes.”

Meanwhile Souraya Halloway, marketing and PR supervisor with Dubai-based franchise operator Cravia Inc, defines the style as “a combination of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern foods.”

Whilst the GCC boasts numerous independent shawarma joints offering a quick, tasty meal, Cravia’s Zaatar w Zeit brand – which slates itself as an “urban-casual Lebanese wrap concept,” is one of the very few authentically Middle Eastern fast food joints that has been embraced by local society.

Indeed, the company has enjoyed such success during its decade operating in the UAE, that it’s just announced plans to take the brand Saudi-side, starting with Riyadh.

Following that launch, Cravia is set to embark on an aggressive expansion plan – with 57 additional outlets slated for the GCC over the next few years.

Subtle Contrasts
Despite the similarity of dishes and flavours across the MENA region, Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa Sea and Spa’s director of F&B, Charbel Hanna, points out that ingredients and subtle flavours vary, based on the climate and the location.

Hussain agrees: “This provides a wonderful opportunity for chefs to cook the same dish in different, delicious ways.”

Arabic chef for Rosewood’s Al Faisaliah Hotel and Hotel Al Khozama in Saudi Arabia, Kamal Korooni, expands: “North African food is often couscous-based or involves bread; while Gulf countries tend to use more rice and meat in their dishes.”

Cravia’s Halloway explains that there is also a strong Indian influence in the GCC.

“On the other hand,” she continues, “countries within the Levant region such as Lebanon and Syria are more influenced by the landscape.

“More Mediterranean weather permits them to work elements such as olive oil and fresh vegetables into their cuisine.”

Despite the wide variety of flavours on offer in the GCC and wider MENA region, Al Nafoorah’s
Hussain insists Arabic cuisine is well represented – and does not feel that any particular Middle Eastern style is left out.

“Visitors and residents alike are provided ample opportunity to taste and appreciate a variety of dishes from different countries, with a wide range of restaurants catering to the entire market,” he asserts.

There may be a marked synergy between national cuisines across the MENA region, but are restaurants showcasing certain styles more often than others?

Lebanese outlets appear to be the most common, as Cravia’s Halloway notes: “This national style is very popular in the region, due to the variety of dishes,” she explains.

“Their cuisine really covers both styles of Middle Eastern food: the spiced rice-and-meat dishes, as well as the fresh produce.”

But, with the MENA region often lumped together by those unfamiliar with its subtle nuances, this appreciation of one style can come at the expense of another.

“I think North African cuisine is undervalued here, mainly because it’s under-represented,” says Sofitel Bahrain’s Hanna.

Meanwhile it is difficult – nigh on impossible – to get anyone to identify precisely what constitutes authentically Emirati cuisine; although the general chef consensus seems to be heavy, greasy, slow-cooked meat-and-rice dishes, along with some seafood.

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World of Opportunity
There has been little effort to bring the more traditional GCC cuisines to the fore, although murmurs do occasionally surface.

Returning to the prevalence of Lebanese food today, Atayeb restaurant’s Al Zaham claims the answer lies in history.

“Lebanese people were the first Arabs to venture out in the wide world from the Levantine region, and spread the experience of their cuisine,” he rationalises.

“So it’s understandable that their dishes became famous before any other cuisine from the Levantine region, or any other Arab country, had a chance to flourish.

“And in my view, the most undervalued cuisine here in the Middle East is Iraqi,” he continues. “I have yet to find a truly authentic Iraqi restaurant.”

Over the past 20 years or so, as the world has opened up for international travel, attitudes towards ‘foreign food’ have changed – with Arabic flavours winning over a growing international fan base.

Hanna notes that “Arabs are very well known for their generosity and hospitality, which has impacted directly on their food in terms of variety, presentation and taste.

“This has helped the local cuisine position itself very strongly,” he emphasises.

Al Zaham adds that he’s seen a big change in orders by guests over the past three years: “When I opened, there was only demand for the grilled meat main course, and maybe one specific mezzah. But in the last 18 months, the guests have gradually started demanding more of the different options.”

Korooni asserts that today, Arabic cuisine is well known the world over – from Lebanese shawarma to Turkish baklava. He says that more modern serving styles and presentation has had a lot to do with winning over the international market.

At Zaatar w Zeit, Cravia’s Halloway says they’ve seen the demographic broadening. “Now we don’t only see Arab visitors, but also a lot of expats, seeking healthy, fresh alternatives to traditional fast food,” she says.

So the cuisine is well-established, and well represented: but just how tough is it to compete in the Arabic arena?

According to Al Nafoorah’s Hussain, the stakes are rising day by day.

“That’s a good thing, because it gives guests the opportunity to choose between a selection of restaurants that offer great value for money,” he says. “Once you’re competing on that level, the challenge is to find a balance between the quality of food, service and atmosphere that gives you the edge.”

Heritage
Staffing has always been a hot topic in the regional F&B field and finding chefs of regional descent has generally not been easy. However, Al Nafoorah’s Hussain insists there is an increasing supply of Arabic chefs, with a “good knowledge and background.”

Other chefs maintain that more needs to be done to attract GCC nationals into the F&B field, and particularly when it comes down to the kitchen. In last month's Caterer's Head Chef Survey, 75% of chefs agreed or strongly agreed they would like to recruit more national born staff.

“There are always new hotels and restaurants opening in the Middle East,” says Rosewood’s Korooni. “Many of them will want to offer a locally flavoured restaurant of some kind, so chefs who know and understand the region’s cuisine, because they have grown up here, are in demand.”

Atayeb’s Al Zaham adds that it is getting tougher to recruit Arab chefs, and puts this down to the Arab Spring, and ongoing “political instability in the region.”

Still, it seems those working in the field today are doing well – with many branching out and exploring new innovations to spice up the time-honoured classics.

In Saudi Arabia, however, Rosewood’s Korooni is admiring a trend that he’s witnessing in the country today.

“Growing numbers of ladies are entering the food and beverage industry. Not to cook at hotels, as such, but preparing and selling local delicacies. It’s a wonderful way to keep really authentic, traditional local dishes alive,” he asserts.

Altayeb’s Al Zaham says he’s noticed a growing industry buzz around going back to the roots of Arabic cuisine, by eating “locally-sourced organic food with less processing and more flavours.”

Despite this encouragingly fresh thinking, Arabic restaurants can easily become a cliché, in terms of menu, décor and entertainment; how can an outlet ensure it stands out from the crowd, amidst so much tradition?

Al Nafoorah's Hussain believes it’s about focusing on six main points: “Quality and variety of food; ambience; service; location; value for money; and entertainment.”

Cravia’s Halloway adds that it is vital to keep the food and concept offering fresh.

“The key is to continually enhance the menu and give new tastes and deals that stand out from the rest. And in addition to food itself, it’s important to remodel the brand image as to stay relevant, yet as unique as possible,” she explains.

The main issue that chefs working in Arabic cuisine seem to agree on is that authenticity is a must.

But as Sofitel Bahrain’s Hanna puts it: “It’s what you do on top of that to make sure your food – and outlet – stands out and is remembered, that’s the important part.”

Famed Arabic cuisine
Suzanne Husseini, a UAE-based TV chef and cookbook author, takes time out from her latest book signing tour to chat to Caterer Middle East about what Arabic cuisine means to her

What does ‘Arabic cuisine’ conjure up?
Arabic cuisine is a tapestry of flavours woven by a sophisticated food culture that encompasses the Eastern Mediterranean, North Africa and the Middle East. It is a feast of exotic tastes, scents of citrus, vibrant herbs, hints of saffron, glistening red pomegranates and the enchanting aroma of rose water.

Why aren't there more Arabic chefs here - and how do you think we should remedy it?
More Arabic chefs should get more innovative with their cuisine. A lot of international hotels here go out of their way to find popular chefs from abroad. They may be good at what they do, but their cuisine becomes quite redundant as all the restaurants in hotels serve up more and more of the same.

What's your 'top tip' for a simple, authentically Arabic recipe?
One of my favourite easy-to-prepare traditional recipes would be mousaq'aa; the name means and implies that it's to be eaten cold. It's basically grilled aubergines, layered between generous amounts of a fresh garlic and onion-infused tomato sauce, thickened with chickpeas. The sweet aubergine complemented by the freshness and acidity of the tomatoes is a divine combination!

Meet the supplier
Buffet displays are a popular way of serving up Arabic cuisine.
One supplier, targeting Arabic restaurants with its range of buffetware, perfect for iftars, is Pilsa Middle East. Caterer speaks to Fernando Moreno Muñoz, Middle East general manager.

On the company...
“The main activity of Pilsa Middle East is not only to manufacture exceptional kitchen equipment, but also bring decades of experience as consultants and designers for the food-service equipment industry.
From conceptual design, to MEP floor plans – we cover all aspects of commercial kitchens, cold rooms and buffet counters.”

On the competition...
“It is always very difficult to compete in any market, but together with our partner in the Middle East we are ready to continue the introduction of our services and products in the MENA region.”

On the top sellers...
“Some of our most popular items are our custom-made buffet counters that enjoy a big success in all hotel establishments, as they make it possible to display a wide variety of items.”