SUPPLIER ROUNDTABLE: Spa trends

James Clarey, November 5th, 2012

SPA trends are a hot topic: new ingredients are being successfully implemented in product lines and technology is driving advanced treatments. Here, suppliers and distributors, along with two top spa managers, discuss how to select the best

Susan Gorman, founder and managing director, Sarum Trading Founded to bring organic and natural luxury spa products to the Middle East, Sarum Trading distributes a range of spa product lines including Neom, Cowshed, Sodashi and Suki. Gorman was previously a spa director with experience in the region, including with The Address Hotels+Resorts.

Tristan Lagarde, international sales manager, Phytomer Phytomer develops skincare products and treatments that are inspired by marine ingredients. It is distributed in the Middle East by Beauty Leaders.

Clare Maskall, marketing director, The Product House The Product House is responsible for bringing some of the most high profile spa product lines to the Middle East, including Aromatherapy Associates, Anne Semonin, Kerstin Florian and Eve Lom. Rodial and Voya are due to be launched soon.

Peter Dowling, managing director, House of Maria Dowling Established in 2001,House of Maria Dowling offers products and services to the spa, hotel, retail and airline industries. The company is an affiliate of Thailand-based Puri Alchemy, developer of the Puri professional range of spa products and the Panpuri branded product house.

Louise Molloy, training and development consultant, Esadore International Esadore International is a specialized management, consulting and design company operating in the spa and fitness segments. This year it launched its own spa concept, Nine Degrees.

Rosalin Lau, spa manager, The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC With 18 years of professional experience in the hotel spa business, Rosalin Lau was appointed manager of The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC Spa in May 2012, where she is responsible for overseeing the spa, fitness centre and retail. Previously, she was assistant spa manager for Burj Al Arab.

Hannah Dowd, So Spa manager, Sofitel Abu Dhabi Corniche Heading up the first So Spa in the Middle East, which opened in September, is Hannah Dowd, who started her career as a therapist in 2006 in Australia. She became a spa manager after only one year, with subsequent roles managing spas at hotels such as Baros Maldives, Raffles Dubai and The Address Dubai Marina.

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Q: What are the most recent developments when it comes to the ingredients used in spa products?

Susan Gorman, founder and managing director, Sarum Trading: The spa industry is moving towards the use of healthier and more natural ingredients. Recent developments in ingredients include the use of Vitamin Peptide Complex which combines vitamins A, C, E and coQ10 along with resveratrol and hyaluronic acid.

Australian brand Freeze Frame uses peptides and GAMA — both ingredients that naturally exist in the human body — to provide consumers with strong yet healthy anti-aging solutions.

Tristan Lagarde, international sales manager, Phytomer: The Phytomer scientific team identified a new and 100% natural source of marine ingredients: ExoPolySaccharides, or EPS.
Mainly composed of sugars, they are produced by plankton micro-organisms directly in their environment to ensure defence, nutrition or adhesion functions. They represent the future of marine cosmetics as they have an almost infinite amount of applications.

Clare Maskall, marketing director, The Product House: Anne Semonin, our bespoke French brand, recently launched its Miracle Eye Contour Anti Wrinkle Cream which contains sea retinol, scientifically renowned for its wrinkle-smoothing action, boasting similar properties to retinol but without its irritating effect. Sodium Hyaluronate continues to be a must-have ingredient with impressive results, helping to lock moisture in the skin.

Syn-ake is a fascinating ingredient used in the Rodial skincare line — it’s a small peptide that mimics the activity of the polypeptide that is found in the venom of the temple viper, with a plumping freezing effect on the skin that we’re all very excited about in our office!

Q: What are the recent trends in spa product technology? Do you advocate the use of technology in treatments, or prefer your products to stand alone?

Australian brand Freeze Frame uses peptides and GAMA — both ingredients that naturally exist in the human body — to provide consumers with strong yet healthy anti-aging solutions. Tristan Lagarde, international sales manager, Phytomer: The Phytomer scientific team identified a new and 100% natural source of marine ingredients: ExoPolySaccharides, or EPS.

Mainly composed of sugars, they are produced by plankton micro-organisms directly in their environment to ensure defence, nutrition or adhesion functions. They represent the future of marine cosmetics as they have an almost infinite amount of applications.

Sodium Hyaluronate continues to be a must-have ingredient with impressive results, helping to lock moisture in the skin. Syn-ake is a fascinating ingredient used in the Rodial skincare line — it’s a small peptide that mimics the activity of the polypeptide that is found in the venom of the temple viper, with a plumping freezing effect on the skin that we’re all very excited about in our office!

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Q: What are the recent trends in spa product technology? Do you advocate the use of technology in treatments, or prefer your products to stand alone?

Tristan Lagarde: We believe that one can achieve amazing skincare results with a non-invasive, specifically-designed protocol. In addition, a hands-on approach really puts the emphasis on the therapists’ excellent work.

Susan Gorman: I personally do not believe in the use of equipment in treatments. I think products alone can deliver outstanding results. Peter Dowling, managing director, House of Maria Dowling: We provide products formulated using cutting-edge technology and focused on natural ingredients.

Our clients can focus on treatment technology or a traditional hands-on treatment approach. We leave that up to the client. Louise Molloy, training and development consultant, Esadore International: There are many different aspects of new technology making their way into the spa industry, ranging from LED light therapy that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles to oxygen-induced treatments to revitalise and regenerate the skin.

We are definitely open with regards to introducing an aspect of spa technology within an individual product range to go alongside our Nine Degrees brand for the future, however, Nine Degrees will be stand alone, as our vision for this product range is purely based on the natural fusions of Middle Eastern ingredients and remedies that emanate the true philosophy of its ancestry.

Clare Maskall: Two of our brands Kerstin Florian International and Aromatherapy Associates have recently launched machines to enhance their offering to customers.

Q: What are the biggest challenges faced by spa managers?

Susan Gorman: In this region, spa managers are constantly faced with the challenge of sourcing qualified spa therapists and managing culturally diverse environments. Clare Maskall: Definitely competition, it's fierce out there! However if a hotel spa manager is supported by the GM and senior colleagues the spa can thrive and become a profit centre for the hotel.

Another challenge is retaining good therapists, new spas open offering bigger packages and better accommodation so managers have to keep a close eye on their staff's wellbeing. Peter Dowling: This can be partly seen as a human resources issue, as there is a high staff turnover rate for spa therapists.

The main task then becomes improving the rate of staff retention. Otherwise, there is the process of choosing the right product and brand to complement each spa’s treatments and spa concept, and often a lack of training and support from the product brands themselves, resulting in imperfect implementation and a non-cohesiveness. When it comes to hotel spas, there can be difficulties in acquiring more support in training and development for the spas from the hotel owners or the GM in comparison to other departments.

Rosalin Lau, Spa Manager, The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC: Our biggest challenge is the storage of our products as the shelf-life of natural products is limited. We therefore need to adopt a strict order process, and strategically execute promotions to encourage retail sales, to encourage purchase when required.

Hannah Dowd, So Spa manager, Sofitel Abu Dhabi Corniche: The oversaturation of brands in the market is immense. This can make it a little daunting when opening a spa as you receive the same spiel from all brand reps – my advice, do your own research, make sure it complements your brand, make sure it works and do not be scared to take a brand on that is new or well known to the area. You will know if a brand is the right fit or not.

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Q:How much training do you offer the spas you work with?

Peter Dowling: If it’s for our professional spa range Puri, which is used to develop a signature menu, then no training is offered as our clients develop the concept and carry out the training internally.

If a client is using our Panpuri brand and introducing our facial treatment protocol, then we would provide training as the treatment is highly specific. And if a spa were offering Panpuri as a retail brand, we would also provide training.

Louise Molloy: We offer bespoke training services in the following categories, to develop the knowledge of all team members: support training for new and already established spas; onsite and offsite training support; management training; customised training; and facial and body treatments.

Susan Gorman: We provide clients with one to four weeks of training for the preopening stage, depending on product line, services offered and account size. We also offer refresher training, bi-monthly or monthly depending on the account’s size and requirements.

Tristan Lagarde: We offer a complete detailed training on Phytomer conducted by our highly qualified product educators to our new clients upon signing a contract with them. Refresher training is offered at least twice a year afterwards.

Clare Maskall: For the opening it depends on the amount of treatments included in the menu, however, we would average one to two weeks for the initial opening. Each account is then assigned an account manager who then plans ongoing follow up and refresher training, monitors stock levels and schedules regular retail and product knowledge training sessions.

Rosalin Lau:. Our therapists receive training from both the product houses and our Ritz-Carlton in-house training sessions.

Hannah Dowd: Our team goes through a full training induction once they join. From our product houses, brand trainers are sent on a regular basis for introductory and refreshment training. Most companies offer two to four trainings a year; we also have a spa supervisor responsible for monitoring the training of our therapists.

Q: how have you updated your product lines or treatment menus?
Rosalin Lau: We will be the first spa in the Middle East to launch Aroma Radiance Lift Systems by Aromatherapy Associates. This is a series of results-driven, advanced facials, targeted to specific skin conditions.

Often referred to as a ‘non-surgical facelift’, we are incredibly excited that guests of The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC Spa will be the first to experience these treatments.

Susan Gorman: We recently launched LittleBU, a non-toxic water formula nail polish; Suki, a range of clinically proven skincare solutions; and the Freeze Frame range of surgical alternatives for anti-aging.

Tristan Lagarde: This year will be a considerably important year for the brand, with the launch of Crème Pionnière and Youth Revealing Pioneer Treatment.

Louise Molloy: Our Nine Degrees Signature Skincare range was the initial stage of our brand, where we have targeted three main skin types/concerns. We have now extended this out to a body care range that includes a body exfoliator, body lotion and slimming gel.

Clare Maskall: We have recently signed two exclusive new brands that we are very excited about and complement our current bouquet — Voya, an organic seaweed range from Ireland, and Rodial Spa.

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Q: What are the biggest challenges for spa product suppliers?
Clare Maskall: In this region one of the main challenges is government legislation and registration, the rules can change without any notification and we've found exporting to other states can be a minefield, we use the best freight forwarders who help guide us but it can take a lot of time and research.

Peter Dowling: The biggest challenge comes from the cheaper competition from emerging markets, as the current global spa market is approaching a saturated state. There are sometimes ingredient shortages in periods of high demand and occasional complications with packaging suppliers to deal with.

Intricate paperwork and various official hurdles that have to be passed pose another challenge, as there are vastly differing standards and requirements in importing spa products into different countries.

Tristan Lagarde: Speaking of Middle East, we must ensure that we keep Phytomer very visible to spa professionals and consumers through various communication channels to keep our share of voice high and to entice potential clients with our brand.

Another point to keep in mind – the products cannot enter the market without proper registration. We are happy to say that thanks to our regional agent, Beauty Leaders LLC, all Phytomer products are properly classified and our agents do not face any challenges in importing them here.

Louise Molloy: There a number of high quality spa products that are coming onto the market, each offering a different outlook on how best to treat and obtain the best results for the skin. It is really important that your brand is identifiable and gives a clear message to the consumer on the benefits and results.

Being able to deliver on demand can be a huge challenge, meeting deadlines, being flexible, making sure you have the stock quantities on hand are always going to be testing factors. [Recruiting] highly experienced trainers that understand the brand, are good educators and deliver high quality treatment protocols is critical for our reputation.

Q: What spa product lines do you offer and why?
Rosalin Lau, Spa Manager, The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC: The Ritz-Carlton Spa at The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC currently works with Natura Bissé products, the luxurious and revolutionary skincare brand from Barcelona, Spain.

The products combine cutting-edge science and technology with selective active ingredients in their highest concentrations, to deliver maximum benefits and results. By the end of the year, we will also be working with Aromatherapy Associates, a leading spa brand renowned for the therapeutic benefits of their natural essential oils, aromatherapy rituals and treatments.

We choose to work with both brands because they offer results-driven, holistic treatments, which we believe provide the best spa experience for our guests.

Hannah Dowd, So Spa manager, Sofitel Abu Dhabi Corniche: We have three product lines that we work with — Cinq Mondes, Carita and Shiffa. Cinq Mondes draws inspiration from around the world to create and develop their treatments and products, from Japan to the Polynesian islands to Morocco, Indonesia and India.

Carita was chosen for their high performance reputation; their treatments involve lavish diamond facials and laser therapy, which produce immediate results. Shiffa was blended into our So Spa for their sublime hammam products — it is not new to the area but it has a devout following.

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SPA Best Sellers
Rosalin Lau, Ritz-Carlton DIFC: Our two top best-sellers from Natura Bissé are The Diamond Collection for face care, and C+C Vitamin Body Cream. We are also anticipating the Overnight Repair Mask from Aromatherapy Associates, which contains active botanical ingredients, to be extremely popular with our guests looking to achieve tighter and more supple and firm skin, whilst they sleep. Best selling treatments are Swedish Massage, Natura Bissé Bespoke Facial and the range of 25-minute treatments on our Spa Express or Pit-Stop menu.

Hannah Dowd, So Spa, Sofitel Abu Dhabi Corniche: Cinq Mondes will have a strong devout following after experiencing one of their treatments — results are immediate and they have two fantastic slimming treatments targeting cellulite and aqueous fat, the complementing retail products being the ‘Udvartana Body Contouring Cream’ and the ‘Crème De Café Firming Cream’.

Clare Maskall, The Product House: From Eve Lom, the cleansers and Rescue Mask; from Aromatherapy Associates, the De Stress Muscle Gel and Bath and Shower oils; from Anne Semonin, the Lipoliss Anti Cellulite Gel and the recently launched Miracle Eye Creme; and from Kerstin Florian International, it’s The Correcting range, while the Turkish Body scrub and FuB balm are the two classic KFI body products that we find hard to keep on the shelves!

Susan Gorman, Sarum Trading: Contouring Body Gel and Youthful Bust Firming gel from Sodashi and Exfoliating Foaming Cleanser from Suki skincare range (a hero product in USA and now UAE).

Tristan Lagarde, Phytomer: Our three star products would include Expert Youth, Hydra-Original and Rosée Visage. The new Crème Pionnière will shortly be the strongest.

SPA Revenue versus Retail Revenue
The spa product suppliers and spa managers said that while they all had targets to increase spa retail revenue, it would always vary depending on the facility. Typically, the spas Sarum Trading works with generate 32-46% of revenue from retail, while The Product House expects its clients to achieve 20-30% — both significant rates. As an average, Esadore’s Louise Molloy says spas in the region usually generate around 15-20% from retail.

“There are some spas that generate a higher percentage of 25-40%, this higher variance usually comes in spas that follow good training practices, their staff are very well versed in skin conditions, and how to treat them and they have a selection of effective high quality products which go hand in hand with their recommendations,” observes Molloy.

At the Panpuri Organic Spa in Bangkok, Thailand, Peter Dowling reveals there is a 70-30 split between retail and spa treatments.

“In our case, this may be due to our flagship retail store, which is also on the premises [of the Bangkok spa],” he acknowledges.

“A larger day spa would have an opposite ratio, as most of the guests come for the treatments instead. In a leisure hotel or resort spa, only the large spas gain more revenue from their retail options, as the clientele there is already familiar with the products and their benefits and tend towards repeat purchases for home use,” says Dowling.

At the new So Spa in Abu Dhabi, Hannah Dowd says she is “only looking at approximately 10-15%” in the first year.

“This will increase in the coming years with market exposure and the spa creating its own loyal guests,” she adds.