Top 10 chocolate trends
Karen Osman studies the latest factors affecting the chocolate industry and everyone's favourite indulgence:
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1 AN AFFORDABLE INDULGENCE
If there is one thing most industry professionals agree on, it is that during the hard times, people simply cannot live without the sweet stuff. In an era where economic uncertainty is making everyone more cautious, chocolate is an affordable treat that hasn’t lost its appeal.
Philippe Agnese, executive pastry chef at Atlantis the Palm explains: “In times of hardship, people still look for small ways to indulge themselves and lift their moods. Therefore, I think that chocolate, which is generally a low-cost commodity and provides an immediate feeling of comfort, will always survive a period of recession.”
This trend is not just limited to your everyday supermarket chocolate; people are not prepared to give up their high-end sweet treats either.
Padmanabhan Iyer, head of sales and marketing at Baqer Mohebi says: “With the growing trend of converting luxury into a necessity, the chocolate industry is at an advantage. With the health benefits of chocolate known by the consumer, the guilt of eating it has been disregarded and as a result, chocolate has not been injured by the recent economic downturn.”
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2 RISE OF THE LUXURY CHOCOLATE
The MENA region has seen an influx of both established chocolatiers and new players to the market, resulting in a 10% increase of chocolate consumption in the UAE alone in the past year according to the Marketing Audit Report 2012.
But what type of chocolate are people eating? At the Rosewood Jeddah, there is a “niche market for handmade luxury chocolates, but the masses definitely go for the packaged ones,” says pastry chef Sayed Alam.
“Chocolate is the new cheese,” says Gaetan Herve, general manager at popular cafe Shakespeare & Co. “People understand more about chocolate — its origins, how it is made, the health benefits and the importance of quality of ingredients — and they are willing to pay a premium for artisan chocolate.”
This perhaps explains why the premium chocolate market worldwide has risen significantly with annual sales increasing from US $1.2 billion in 2005 to $1.7 billion in 2009 according to Forbes.com.
Caroline Thompson, food service manager at Lily O’ Brien’s agrees: “Luxury chocolates are very much in demand in the Middle East, particularly internationally renowned brands such as Godiva and the local luxury Lebanese brand Patchi. Of course, there is always demand for a low-cost daily chocolate treat but more and more consumers are growing in sophistication and looking for a superior taste experience to indulge in.”
Such a trend is not only reflected in the quality of the chocolate but also in the store experience, as Dragan Rucnov, executive pastry chef at Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, reports:
“Chocolate boutiques are laid out almost like high-end jewellery stores, where the chocolates are the gems displayed in mouth-watering and breath-taking creations. These are not just a treat for the taste buds but allude to the fact that you eat with your eyes first.”
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3 KNOWLEDGE IS KING
People love a story and there is a shift towards product knowledge such as history, origin, and nutrition. Andreas Schnidrig, corporate chef at More Café explains: “Germany is the leading exporter of chocolate at 1,551,960 tons, followed by Belgium, the Netherlands, France, Canada, USA, Italy, UK, and Switzerland.
There seems to be a rising trend in people being more conscious about what they eat and where it comes from. People are becoming more inclined to buy fair trade and organic chocolate.”
With their own cocoa plantation in Venezuela, which was set up specifically to protect a specific cocoa variety, Porcelana, from extinction, Valrhona is able to easily react to people’s desire to know more.
“These days clients don’t just want tempting and original recipes, they want transparency. For instance, when you choose a 'grand cru de terroir' chocolate (pure origin or single origin), you are choosing a top quality product born from shared values, with its own special story and reliably distinct flavour.”
Fun Facts
• Men's love of chocolate is on par with women's preference for the treat: a UK study by research group Mintel revealed that 91% of all women admit to eating chocolate — with the men not far behind at more than 87%.
• The word ‘chocolate’ comes from the Aztec word, xocolatl, which ironically means bitter water.
• Weighing 5,000 pounds, the biggest bar of chocolate ever made was in the year 2000 in Turin, Italy.
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4 MORE THAN JUST A DESSERT
Elizabeth Stevenson, development chef at Taqado Mexican Kitchen says Dubai is notorious for its experimental chefs.
“Having so many chefs from different parts of the world, they all use chocolate in their own way. We add a pinch of chili to our milk chocolate to give it an extra kick. Using chocolate in savoury cooking, while new to this region, has been taking place in Mexico for centuries.
The Middle East is home to people from all over the world, which obviously creates a varied and eclectic demand for different cuisines and flavour profiles, so I’m sure there is scope for both savoury and sweet chocolate cooking.”
So while chocolate has always showed its versatility as an irresistible and indispensable ingredient for any decadent dessert, do not be surprised to learn your savoury dish has been sweetened too.
Head pastry chef Jhambo Caraquio at Crumbs Elysée explains the appeal: “The inherent bitter and rich aroma of chocolate lends itself particularly well with recipes of dry rubs for meat. Its velvety texture when melted has been an ideal thickening agent for soups and sauces, while its earthy notes have blended perfectly with the strong flavours of different herbs and spices.”
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5 TRADITION REIGNS
While multi-cultural influences do exist, such as dessert pizza and churros and chocolate, they don’t necessarily dominate the market as Fadi Achour, sales manager at La Marquise, explains: “Customers would probably try chili desserts and camel-milk based chocolate out of curiosity, although they would not pick them over traditional options. However, who knows — in a couple of years’ time, this may change.”
Andreas Schnidrig, corporate chef at More Café agrees and believes that Arab influences such as the use of camel milk in chocolate are more a novelty than anything else.
“Sometimes you have to persuade people to try something different. Camel milk can be bought in many stores in Dubai, but it is more popular with tourists and not with the local or expat community. It is mainly consumed during Ramadan.”
Elizabeth Stevenson from Taqado Mexican Kitchen is hopeful though that this may change:
“A specialist product like camel milk chocolate is gaining popularity but it is still mainly offered as confectionery rather than an ingredient for use in cooking. Over time I’m hopeful that this will change since camel milk has a very unique flavour and is a distinctly regional product. Camel milk also carries health benefits that are not available in conventional cow’s milk.”
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6 DARK, MILK OR WHITE CHOCOLATE?
A recent survey published by franchisehelp.com found that 35% of respondents believe dark chocolate to be healthier than other varieties and while milk chocolate still dominates, health benefits are swinging in favour of dark chocolate.
Pierre Feghali, general manager at EMF Emirates explains, “If we look specifically at the Gulf area, milk chocolate constitutes almost 80-90% of the chocolate market. Today though, especially in the UAE, dark chocolate has increased tremendously in volume.
A decade ago, dark chocolate was almost exclusively requested by five-star hotels that cater mainly for expats and tourists. Now, we see more and more chocolatiers requesting dark chocolate, although it is still small compared to milk. Tastes are changing, but the awareness of the health benefits of dark chocolate has a lot to do with this trend as well.”
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7 THE NOBLE CHOCOLATIER
With annual sales for chocolate in the Middle East averaging US $4.2 billion, there seems to be little threat to an industry that crosses all cultures and tastes. With a focus on more affordable luxuries, the presence of the specialist chocolatier seems like it is here to stay.
Helena Shpakovich, brand manager at Godiva explains why: “Gourmet chocolate boutiques offering high-end products are very popular.
Visiting a master-chocolatier boutique is an experience in itself. Hand-crafted artisanal pieces such as Godiva are reflected in the excellence of the product, which has been nurtured by long-lasting standards, traditions of master chocolatiers, and recipes that have been used for decades.”
The region’s inclination for using chocolates as gifts will also benefit the chocolatier as Caroline Thompson, food service manager at Lily O’ Brien’s reports: “Chocolates are a traditional gift of choice and specialist boutique chocolatiers flourish.
Packaging plays a major role in driving purchasing decisions; it must be beautiful, classic, and ornate and convey luxury. The size of the gift is also a key determinant in purchasing decisions, with larger boxes being preferred over smaller offerings.”
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8 A GROWING CONCERN
“Obesity is a major problem in the Middle East and some people are now looking for healthy chocolate, whether organic or sugar free,” explains Khaled Rashwan, pastry chef at Ritz-Carlton Doha.
He is not wrong — in Doha alone, it is predicted that 73% of women and 69% of men will be obese by 2015. According to the International Association for the Study of Obesity, Qatar has the sixth highest rate of obesity for boys in the MENA region.
Lily O’Brien’s is proud of the fact that none of their products contain hydrogenated fats. Food service manager, Caroline Thompson explains how the industry is counteracting such widespread health issues in the region: “Obesity is an important social problem throughout the region and there is therefore a growing commitment among confectionery brands to limit advertising to children under 12 years.
Lower sugar and lower fat chocolate offerings are increasingly available and clear on-pack ingredient and nutritional declarations are becoming legalised in many jurisdictions in the world.”
Pierre Feghali, general manager at EMF also reports an uptake in their healthier options, which can only be a good sign for the region: “We sell more and more sugar-free chocolate fillings and specialities to chocolatiers, and even hotels, which have started offering sugar-free corners [in the restaurants].”
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9 HEALTH MATTERS
Chocolates, amongst other sugary treats, have certainly garnered a bad reputation as one of the many foods considered to have contributed to obesity. However, chocolate’s reputation has risen in recent years due to revelations that in its darker form, it is a healthier choice.
“People have, and always will love chocolate. Chocolate is arguably the world’s tastiest food and now because of its perceived health benefits, people can feel a little less guilty about indulging in their favourite confectionery,” Gaetan Herve from Shakespeare & Co. muses.
“I would like to see more of a focus on the benefits of cocoa fat and chocolate as good, nutritional food,” adds Philippe Agnese from Atlantis the Palm. "People tend to think the higher the percentage of cocoa the better.
Although cocoa is a complex fat rich in vitamins and other beneficial elements, more of it will only help in a better texture, crunch and shine with no influence on the taste and aroma of the finished product. In my opinion, the focus should be more on the fermentation and roasting process of the pods and whether the chocolate is made from a single plantation origin or a range of pods.”
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10 BEAN-TO-BAR CHOCOLATE
An exciting trend in the market is the focus on bean-to-bar chocolate, which involves the use of single origin chocolate from a single plantation.
Philippe Agnese from Atlantis the Palm clarifies, “Chocolate connoisseurs believe that chocolate varies in taste depending on where it is grown and when chocolate is made from many cocoa beans, the unique taste is difficult to recognise. Therefore, a focus on single origin chocolate concentrates on the best features of chocolate to achieve the best possible taste and aroma.”
Sayed Alam from Rosewood Jeddah adds, “People are more concerned about the quality of chocolate and some know their cocoa really well. This trend of choosing fair trade, organic and pure chocolate seems to be catching up.”
Jhambo Caraquio of Crumbs Elysée agrees: “Cocoa farmers will be able to provide flavourful beans and products to chocolatiers to produce decadent candies and pralines. "