Hotelier Middle East Logo
 

Top 10: Delectable desserts


Jamie Knights , October 21st, 2013

Caterer Middle East rounds up the current trends surrounding the sweeter things in life.

1 Craving a cronut?

Is it a bird? Is it a plane? Is it a donut? No, it’s a cronut — a cross between a croissant and a donut and it marks the recent innovation in the world of desserts as Al Murooj Rotana Dubai’s pastry chef Kapila Amaratunga explains.

“We have seen its evolution from a very simple snack or dessert to a really interesting gourmet treat,” he says.

Amaratunga continues: “A lot of varieties have been created by pastry chefs all over the world and I am sure its transformation will continue as the pastry industry develops further and further. This evolution is manifested by the recent rise of the cronut by Chef Dominique Ansel in New York.

“I am sure this cronut craze will reach the UAE soon, perhaps not as ‘cronut’, since I believe the term is being trademarked, but definitely in another form.”

The name might not be an issue though. Al Dar Sweets’ managing partner Wissam El Cheikh Hassan says he “always wondered why they didn’t go with doissants — I felt the name had a better ring to it”.

Creative food and beverage design agency Figjam recently opened Mellow Yellow café in Uptown Mirdiff, which was one of the pioneers of the cronut in Dubai.

Marketing manager Rebecca Payne says that due to “consumer demands for healthy and locally produced food” Figjam developed a baked version of the cronut, filled and topped with creams using seasonal fruits.

Wait ... did someone say guilt-free cronut?!

Article continues on next page ...

2 pick out A little bit of what you fancy!

Good things come in small packages and desserts are no exception. There has been a real explosion in the rise of the mini dessert and outlets are coming up with wonderful inventions to cater to the demand.

Ritz-Carlton Doha’s pastry chef Khaled Rashwan says these miniature delights are especially popular among busy workers. “Guests are looking for easy to eat food, indulgent and not too heavy.”

Hey Sugar owner Dana Jallad, says the rapidly expanding baking empire she runs with her husband Ra’ed Saqfelhait, takes “bite size very seriously”.

“They are fun and allow our customers to taste many of our yummy desserts. The majority of our decadent desserts come in a wide variety of flavours in bite size including cupcakes, cake pops, cake cones, cheesecakes, cookies, brownies, fro yo, and pies — a perfect offering for catering a party,” she adds.

The hotel industry has certainly adopted the trend for the tiny as well and Amaratunga says doing so is a great way to highlight a “pastry chef’s artistic ability” as mini-desserts always “involve a lot of presentation, colour co-ordination and definitely quality”.

Article continues on next page ...

3 Three isn’t a crowd

Dessert is one of the few times that Caterer Middle East allows anyone to go near what they ordered! Atlantis the Palm Hotel Dubai’s executive chef — pastry Philippe Agnese says this is because it’s “a more traditional way of eating”.

“Most cultures have been eating in a sharing style for a long time and I favour this way of eating as it adds a social interaction between family, friends and loved ones,” he asserts.

Hassan agrees stating that desserts “were meant to be shared” hence the ongoing popularity and trend of sharing platters. “Most desserts have celebratory purposes for its servings,” he continues.

“The cultural impact of sweets is evident in our language with friends and loved ones referring to each other as sugar/honey/sweetie. It would be absurd for someone to eat something sweet alone.”

But Amaratunga urges chefs to try to be inventive when coming up with a sharing platter of desserts. “To please your guests, you should be able to customise the items on the platter based on diner preference,” he says.

“Based on my experience, cheese cake, chocolate/vanilla ice cream and chocolate cake are still very famous items on dessert platters, though there are so many things we as pastry chefs can combine in one plate,” he adds.

Article continues on next page ...

4 Guilt-free decadence?

As we struggle with expanding waistlines, it’s little wonder that health issues pervade every aspect of the catering industry and not even the naughtiest of desserts have escaped the crosshairs of the health conscious consumer.

Ritz-Carlton Doha’s Rashwan argues that “healthy alternatives are a must nowadays” for a restaurant menu, not only for desserts “but also in consideration of our guests’ preference or specific diet”. He adds that specific dietary requirement desserts are often popular with the standard guest who wants to “finish their meal or even brunch with a lighter option”.

Hey Sugar has developed its ‘C the Lite’ range of cakes and cupcakes to cater to growing demand. The range includes multiple flavours of low-fat, sugar-free, gluten-free, eggless and high protein options.

As products develop, Agnese believes there will be an increased focus on healthier options within desserts. “The more natural available ingredients that are gluten-free, along with sugar substitutes, will continue to push the boundary for these items and we are going to see a wider range of more interesting alternatives for the non-tolerant consumer,” he adds.

Article continues on next page ...

5 Frozen yoghurt - the hot product

You’ve seen the shops spreading across the region and it’s little wonder why — a cooling sweet treat under the sun.

Al Murooj Rotana Dubai’s Amaratunga explains it is a phenomenon that has actually been around for some time. “Frozen yoghurt has been in the market since the seventies but has only gained international popularity over the last two decades,” he says.

“It continues to become more famous as consumers perceive it as a healthier alternative to ice cream. In my kitchen, blueberry frozen yoghurt has been a constant favourite amongst our dessert lovers.”

Figjam’s managing director Sanjay Murthy says despite the frozen yoghurt industry suffering a decline in the late 1990s, “the hybrid between the traditional ice cream dessert and healthier yoghurt-based products seems to be making a comeback” with a new range of flavours and toppings appealing to the health-conscious consumer.

Despite all this we are not sure that Atlantis’ Agnese is convinced. “It’s a lasting trend so far … probably the worst of the healthy yoghurt. If you like the taste of it then go for it and enjoy! Nevertheless, don’t think for a second that you’re eating something more wholesome or nutritious than a classic ice cream or sherbet, as it’s not the case,” he argues.

“Dairy content is in many cases lower than a classic ice cream and the sugar content is about the same if not more to compensate for the acidity. Remember that frozen yoghurt is made of a dehydrated yoghurt powder and not the real thing.”

Article continues on next page ...

6 Say cheese

While cheese is simply wonderful on its own and a great ending to any meal, the dairy delight has made its way into many desserts, particularly in the Middle East, as Al Dar Sweets’ Hassan explains. “You cannot talk about Arabic sweets without talking about kunafa,” he begins.

“This sweet is served at all celebrations and sometimes even at funerals. Kunafa is the oriental twist on the cheese cake, but with the cheese on the bottom and the crust on the top (with another variation being the cheese in between two crusts), but at nearly 500 calories a piece is can be big enough to be a meal, which is why in Lebanon it is served in a sandwich for breakfast.”

Agnese believes as cheese is more frequently and widely appreciated there will be a greater acceptance for cheese-based desserts. “However, it is very complex in its different textures, and quick-changing and altering aromas,” he warns. “This can happen in a short span of time and can be tricky to use when baking.”

Article continues on next page ...

7 Feeling fruity

Nature often does it best and what can be better than a ripe piece of fruit for a sweet treat? Well adding sugar or chocolate of course! Agnese is a big fan. “I love the taste of fruits used in a dessert,” he begins but adds it has to be the right fruit for the right dessert.

“Unfortunately, I don’t encounter great fruit desserts often enough. For example, some chefs think that putting berries on the menu sounds more expensive and gives it the extra value — not if it’s not the right one!”

There is a difference in the way cultures use fruits though as Hassan explains. “Fruits are used a lot in the Orient as an after meal serving, but not necessarily as a dessert,” he says.

“Unlike western dishes where peaches, berries and the likes are used in making pastries, Arabs use fruits for the creation of jams and marmalades more than everyday sweets (which use nuts and dairy). The only fruit used in the preparation of an Arabic sweet is dates as a stuffing in a cookie called mamoul.”

Article continues on next page ...

8 Macaroons on a dessert island

Pretty as a picture, sweet to taste and a texture to die for, the macaroon is a treat that simple refuses to be ignored.

For Ritz-Carlton Doha’s Rashwan the macaroon is sacred and “is a delight that should never be compromised”. “Although it is considered a children’s treat, it is obvious to witness adults are also addicted,” he enthuses.

“Our recipe includes a variety of flavours, with a light crisp on the outside and a tasty melting fondant on the inside.”

Agnese is also an enthusiast and has a prediction on the future of the macaroon. “Macaroons are an ongoing fantastic trend, but they don’t have to try hard as whatever will happen, it will remain a macaroon and this is a classic, tasty dessert,” he says.

“It’s no surprise that this was the famous treat of Catherine De Medici’s fancy high tea parties. There are enough for every taste and they look amazing in all of their wonderful colours! I do believe that savoury macaroons are making their way as a food trend — you heard it here first!”

But beware, the macaroon can cause family disputes as Hassan relates. “Try telling my four year old daughter she can have only one, or convincing her to have the white one.”

Article continues on next page ...

9 Enticing ethnicity

With world travel becoming increasingly popular and the migration of many workers across the globe, people are experiencing new desserts from different regions.

The Middle East is no exception and Atlantis’ Agnese has noted the interest in people looking for an authentic dessert experience in the region, although this comes with a caveat. “There is a rise in popularity for regional desserts, however, more often than not the dessert will show some European based techniques,” he explains.

“Nonetheless, the different approaches with the taste and aroma has something to offer and can trigger some good creative idea for chefs trained in Europe.”

Hey Sugar’s Jallad says it is the wide variety of cultures and ethnic backgrounds that reside in Dubai and the wider UAE that has led to a great range of products available.

“Accordingly, Hey Sugar Bakeshop caters for different ethnic holidays and flavours from Diwali to the kunafeh cupcake — there is something special for every person and every background.”

Article continues on next page ...

10 Studying the classics

While innovation is fantastic and it is always fun to try something new, the classics are so called for a very good reason.

Rashwan says one of the “key-winners” is umm ali, “not only because it is a regional classic and must-have in a pastry kitchen in Qatar, but also because we present the most traditional recipe, without any artifice”.

And Agnese says the focus on the traditional is proving popular amongst a younger generation. “The younger audience likes this as a retro approach to most things,” he says.

“It’s great, it gives the opportunity for older chefs like me to re-visit what we grew up with and what we learned. This way we get to pass on the knowledge to our staff of the never-dying classics. It is from these basic categories that today, many concept arise from.”

But there is also room for tweaks on the favourites and Payne says there is a trend developing for “classic dishes with a twist”.

“In the UK, Heston Blumenthal and Waitrose introduced an exclusive range of British cuisine with a twist and Müllers Fruit Corner introduced a 'British Classics' collection based on classic British desserts,” she explains.

“Consumers search out specific comfort foods for many reasons, and smart chefs are now modernising the classics combined with the latest flavour trends.”