Top 10: Dairy delights
Caterer Middle East takes a stroll into the farming world and discovers the latest trends in dairy:
1 Traditional Arab cheeses
When in Rome, do as the Romans do. So when in the Middle East ... use traditional cheeses from the region, of which there are plenty.
Hilton Dubai Jumeirah Residences’ new wine bar, The Grape Escape, supervisor Axel Bertrand says: “As a lover of cheese, it is always interesting to see what characteristics of a region or culture come across in their produce.
“Middle Eastern cheeses such as jibneh arabieh or halloumi are real products of the region with a flexibility to use sheep, goat or cow milk, and a basic block mould or brine used to form the cheeses. I think halloumi is very widely used and often popular because of its high melting point which makes it great for grilling.”
Emirates Industry for Camel Milk & Products deputy GM Mutasher Al Badry says the firm produces and sells three different kinds of Arab cheeses using camel milk following traditional recipes.
He says: “According to the GCC Food Report 2011, the growth of dairy consumption in the UAE has been prospected to grow by over 5% until 2015. The role of traditional cheeses such as nabulsi, halloumi and akawi has always been strong on the GCC markets. Even though cheeses from other regions around the globe have entered the regional market, the popularity of the traditional cheeses is still unbroken.”
Celeb chef Silvena Rowe who is a fervent supporter of local dishes says: “I love akawi cheese, and one of my favourite cheeses is jibneh mshallaleh or Syrian string cheese. It’s slightly salty but very much back in vogue. It is a truly dramatic and exciting looking cheese to add to a conventional cheese board.”
Article continues on next page ...
2 Local production
Riding the sustainability wave, dairy production is going local. Bertrand says: “I have also been intrigued by camel’s milk cheese which is just coming into commercial production.
Apparently it is more difficult to make because of its composition, but the nutritional value is much higher in vitamin content and lower in fat so between this and its regional appeal I am sure we will see more of camel’s milk cheese in the months to come.”
Rowe says: “I buy most locally produced cheeses, my most favourite one has to be the local burrata.This is an incredible achievement, when we considerer that the authentic burrata comes from Puglia in Italy. The locally made burrata is slightly different in texture and flavour but good enough.”
She may just be talking about Italian Dairy Products and its general manager Maria Luisa Panzica La Manna says: “Italian Dairy Products is capturing part of the niche market for locally produced dairy foods, and, since beginning of operations, we have experienced a consistent increase in the demand for our cheeses as more restaurants introduce them as ingredients for dishes catering to a growing preference for fresh items made locally.
Our cheeses have also attracted the demand of airlines and you will see different varieties in both Emirates and Etihad’s cabins.”
Al Badry adds: “At EICMP, we believe that using local ingredients and facilities is important to bring the UAE dairy industry forward.
As producers of the camel milk brand Camelicious, we are dealing with one of the most traditional local ingredients. Camel milk has been used by Arab Bedouins for centuries, and has been an essential part of people’s daily diet, particularly in the Gulf region.”
Article continues on next page ...
3 Ditch the lactose
Lactose intolerance is the inability of some people to digest lactose, which is a sugar found in milk and products derived from cow’s milk dairy products.
A health trend in its own right, lactose-free dairy is something producers like EICMP capitalise on as camel milk has much less lactose in comparison to cow’s milk. According to its website, camel milk is an alternative for people with lactose intolerances. Some Asian populations in particular lack lactase, the enzyme required to break down lactose.
Providing a lactose-free option in dairy products, especially milk, can give companies an advantage over competitors. According to Euromonitor International, the lactose-free dairy market is dominated by Western Europe and North America in value terms, with these two regions accounting for 70% of the $2.8 billion industry in 2012.
Probiotic yoghurts can also be suitable for consumption by those with lactose intolerance as the process of bacterial fermentation improves the digestibility of the lactose. Yakult Honsha’s small bottles of well-fermented milk are available in the UAE, and it is the Asia-Pacific region's topmost yoghurt player with a 20% value share in 2008, and it ranks fourth in dairy overall.
Article continues on next page ...
4 Not just cows in the field
EICMP’s Al Badry says that according to a recent study by global market research organisation RTS Resource Ltd, natural ingredients accounts for nearly one-third of the total US $39bn global food and drink ingredients market.
“With this in mind, we believe that camel milk is a factual alternative for consumers, especially in the Middle Eastern and African regions, but also for health-conscious consumers elsewhere in the world,” he explains.
“Our camel milk is a natural product without any artificial additives and preservatives, and its unique attributes especially with regards to health and beauty are numerous. Apart from the fact that there are no known allergies to camel milk, recent studies also suggest it to have a positive effect on patients with Diabetes Type II, Hepatitis and autoimmune diseases. There are plenty of relevant facts making camel milk special and we believe in the potential of this extraordinary milk on a global scale.”
The Al Ain Dairy is also home to over 1,500 camels and its facility produces approximately 3,000 litres per day.
Article continues on next page ...
5 Standalone!
It’s not a cheese board! It’s not a dessert! It’s a ... meal? Italian Dairy Products’ La Manna says cheese, of different types and origins, form part of a trend which assigns greater value to fresh and quality products. She says: “Cheeses are standing alone more and more as an appetizer or acting as a main ingredient of entrees.
“No longer are cheeses at the dining table being relegated to simply playing the part of a generic cheese board served as an afterthought to a large meal, or being tossed into a salad to add some colour.
“Burrata and mozzarella are being served on their own. Ricotta is being served cold atop a warm dish of pasta to create a temperature and sweet and salty contrast in some dishes.”
A burrata served on its own? We’re down for that.
Article continues on next page ...
6 Going Organic
Traceability and being able to explain the source of products is increasingly important in light of food contamination scandals, and organic dairy hits that trend on the sweet spot.
Currently the selection of organic yoghurts and desserts in local supermarkets has increased, and producers like Rachel’s Organic Dairy is capitalising on the demand for natural ingredients.
On a more local level, The Ice Cream Shop UAE is a local SME and its ice cream is made only from organic milk, cream, sugar, eggs and fresh seasonal organic fruit. Founder Salma Hijjawi says: “When I started making organic ice cream, it was not because it is a fad. In my house, we are 80% organic and are 100% off fast and junk food. I am a firm believer that organic food is what makes my family feel better and healthy.
She adds: “I enjoy making ice cream and I love it when someone orders a tub or two. I add new flavours once in a while depending on ingredient availability, which is sometimes a challenge.
“But I do not compromise, I do not add anything that is artificial, coloured or processed.”
Article continues on next page ...
7 Back to basics - ice cream and gelato
Ice cream and gelato is coming back into vogue. According to research from Euromonitor International, the demand for value-added ice cream products continued to grow with momentum in 2012.
The report shows that in the UAE, International Foodstuffs Co (IFFCO) continued to lead in ice cream, accounting for a retail value share of 40%, in 2012. In Saudi Arabia, IFFCO came out on top as well, with a value share of 31%. Saudi Ice-Cream Factory, which offers the Kwality range, was the second leading player overall rounded off by Saudi Dairy & Foodstuff Co Ltd (SADAFCO).
In addition to SMEs, bigger brands are also cashing in. The Taste Initiative recently launched its gelateria, and head chef Mark Taquet says he wanted to launch a range of ice creams with flavours not easily found elsewhere.
“We have some interesting flavours, I’ve got an Irish soda bread ice cream, a raisin ice cream, and even celery. At the moment we’re experimenting with different flavours, and plan on bringing more in the future.”
Article continues on next page ...
8 Cut the fat out?
Jones the Grocer education manager Christian Lehmann says while every dietary advice recommends low-fat or non-fat dairy, a growing number of experts are arguing that it's healthier to eat and drink dairy products with all the fat left in.
“When looking at the supermarket shelves, it is obvious that a lot of consumers go for low fat dairy products as it has been the trend for a while.
Unfortunately, most people believe that fats are the dietary villains, even if natural fats are good for the human body and actually necessary for a healthy and balanced diet. The only fats that should be limited are the man-made fat varieties such as trans-fats,” he explains.
He also says that while there are a wide variety of low-fat cheeses out there, most options are mass-produced and vacuum-packed cheeses where their ingredient list is a lot longer than just milk, cheese cultures, salt and enzyme.
“Namely preservatives and taste enhancers as the taste was taken out by the fat reduction. In addition to that, low-fat cheese has significantly higher sodium content,” he cautions.
Article continues on next page ...
9 Go Vegan!
Dubai-based Ultra Brasserie offers quinoa milk as an option in its milk-based drinks, and it is increasingly seen as a trend to have it as a better alternative compared to cow’s milk. Other plant-based dairy includes soy milk, almond milk, and even a lesser-known ‘teff’ found in Organic Foods & Café.
Lehmann says: “Other products found in the dairy product shelves like quinoa or almond milk have seen a strong trend recently. This will continue, and even increase and expand, as consumers look for alternatives to products created from animal products due to their preference, allergies, beliefs, and also due to the fact that non-dairy milk tends to be healthier and more nutritious.”
However, the only obstacle he sees right now is customers being hesitant because they are not satisfied with the taste as it is in most cases very different to cow’s milk and what they are used to.
“The trend would be even stronger if some of the non-dairy milks become more similar or almost identical to dairy milk,” he adds.
Using plant-based ingredients in ice cream can be difficult says The Ice Cream Shop UAE’s Hijjawi: “It is challenging to develop home-made nondairy organic ice cream (using coconut, soy or almond milk), since I do not use any stabilizers or emulsifiers.”
Article continues on next page ...
10 Bubbles and Cheese
Jones the Grocer’s Lehmann says few food and drink combinations are as festive, exciting, and romantic as the age-old pairing of cheese and wine. “When put together, cheese and wine add up to more than just food and drink; they are an experience.”
He explains there is no rigid ‘right or wrong’ match; people should eat and drink what they like. Lehmann adds: “Nevertheless there are different guidelines and approaches one might consider.
The one which is definitely the oldest is the ‘terroir’ or the regional approach, where local cheeses are enjoyed with local wines. Then you can either complement or contrast the flavours of both, cheese and wine.”
He says that beer is also very popular with cheese and is an upcoming trend to pair cheese with other beverages as well. “Cider pairs beautifully with cheeses and as the variety of ciders is growing, the choice of matching it with different cheese styles is becoming more diverse and interesting,” Lehmann adds.
“In the UAE, you are able to find quite a number of establishments that offer regular wine and cheese dinners where the main focus is on the fact that people can eat and drink as much as they want.
Those will probably never disappear but for sure more and more people are keen to see something different on the market with an additional and enhanced experience such as educational cheese and wine pairings.”