Cuisine Focus: Steakhouse

 Meet the Experts
- Andrea Gerometta, executive chef, The Capital Grill, Dusit Thani Abu Dhabi
- Luigi Vespero, head chef, The Rib Room, Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Dubai
- Gerardo Recabarren, chef de cuisine, The Forge, Ritz-Carlton Grand Canal Abu Dhabi
- Max Grenard, culinary director, Dubai Golf & Creek Club

Hisham Wyne finds out why steakhouses remain sizzling favourites across the Middle East, searing their way into customer appetites and imaginations

How popular are steakhouses in the Middle East?
Andrea Gerometta, executive chef, The Capital Grill, Dusit Thani Abu Dhabi: Given that locals and expats are generally very fond of mixed grills and grilled meats, we are starting to see an increasing trend for steakhouses in the Middle East. There are about four to five really good steakhouses in Abu Dhabi. I believe our guests look for quality in the meat, rather than quantity.

Luigi Vespero, head chef, The Rib Room, Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Dubai: It’s not a coincidence that some of the best restaurants in Dubai are steakhouses — they make for the perfect place to entertain guests, host parties or celebrations, and to take visiting friends and relatives. People nowadays are looking for comfort and quality at the same time. They know what a good steak is like. The great variety of items available on the menu also makes them popular.

Gerardo Recabarren, chef de cuisine, The Forge Steakhouse, Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi: I believe that in the Middle East steakhouses are very popular as local customers are well-travelled, appreciate the finer things in life and are very knowledgeable when it comes to new dining trends and high quality cuisine. On many occasions, I would meet a very engaged guest at The Forge asking about different cuts of meat on the menu, various cooking techniques, and in general, being genuinely interested in all things steak.

What is the supply-stream like for steakhouses?
AG: We are pampered with the quality of meat we can get here in the UAE, but nevertheless are always trying to get the best of the best. That’s why our main meats are prime American, Australian and New Zealander, with a hint of Argentinian, Brazilian and Irish.

LV: The supply-stream is actually very good in Dubai. You can purchase products all year around or follow the seasonality of the product. This allows chefs to ensure that we have the freshest, in-season ingredients all year round. When it’s spring in Europe we import the freshest produce from there, and then when the time is right in the Southern hemisphere we use those products. We work with suppliers in Australia, New Zealand, US, Canada, Argentina and Japan.

GR: We are very fortunate at The Forge as our menu features different cuts from all around the world including steaks from France, Australia, the United States, Argentina, Wales, and Canada. We work closely with suppliers to ensure all regulations are followed and that we receive the product of the highest quality.

Max Grenard, culinary director, Dubai Golf & Creek Club: As a restaurant, we demand sourcing reliability and consistency that will ultimately lead to our customer’s satisfaction. Our guests want quality food at affordable price so product freshness is a must, regardless of seasonal variability. Cost and customer service come bundled — not à la carte.

Marwan Kandeel, multi-brand manager, The Steak Bar, DIFC: Steaks served in the UAE are imported from a variety of countries such as Australia, Argentina and Brazil, but the finest cuts of beef are usually sourced from USA.

Ahmed Al Bader, director, Epicure Group, The Butcher’s Den, Kuwait: There is a good supply stream available on the most common cuts from the USA, Argentina and Australia.

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What challenges are faced by steakhouses in the region?
AG: Most guests request their meat to be well-done. It is a shame, because fully cooked meat loses a bit of its original tenderness. Nevertheless, the mindset is slowly but surely changing and guests are keener to try less cooked meats. Competition is definitely another challenge to keep in mind.

LV: The main challenge faced by steakhouses in Dubai is competition. There are many quality steakhouses out there fighting for the same business.

GR: Competition is definitely challenging, and is heating up. I welcome the challenge, though, as it pushes me and my team to focus on innovation and to further develop the concept of the restaurant always ensuring the quality of food is superb.

MG: The main challenge is competition with other steakhouses. We have to maintain our budgeted costs, market our business, bring in new customers and develop a repeat clientele.

MK: Rising demand for high calibre steaks inevitably affects the price. Supply can be a challenge — meat from all over the world is routed to the US during BBQ season, which limits our supply in the region. Another challenge comes from regional laws restricting the import of meat from a few sources. This results in heavy demand for a certain brand or from targeted suppliers in specific countries.

AB: Suppliers are very cautious about their shrink and waste. Hence orders have to be pre-committed, and purchased before the meat arrives. From the restaurant’s point of view, this commits capital and increases risk.

Are there any trends you can see emerging when it comes to steaks and grilling?
AG: Every steakhouse is pretty much doing similar things in terms of their menus. We are trying to break that trend by promoting a sharing concept.

LV: I believe that chefs will start to expand their menus and look into secondary cuts such as rump, oyster blade, and flank. These cuts are perfect for lunch menus.

GR: Sustainability is a major trend, as is bringing back the natural flavour of meat without disguising it.

MG: Organic and grass-fed steaks are in trend. Less fuss, small plates and greater choice is what the menus are all about.

MK: The most recent trend, I would say, is serving ‘top-notch’ steak. This means that all restaurants are striving to serve the most exquisite steak in town.

AB: The trend will be focusing on cheap cuts, and optimising the full yield of the carcass.