Ingredient Focus: Fish & Seafood
Caterer Middle East reveals the latest news, products, tips and tricks related to the seafood sector
PRODUCTS
Kaviari
During the festive season, caviar is always popular on celebratory menus at restaurants in the region. Fresh Express currently distributes Kaviari, a French caviar brand and Kaluga caviar is something extra special for the festive period.
Scallops & Sauce
Clearwater Seafoods has recently launched ‘Scallops & Sauce’ — a combination of wild caught Argentine scallops coated in one of three signature sauces: garlic cream, marinara or sun-dried tomato. Scallops & Sauce was created as a finished concept and can be served on its own, or customised to a variety of restaurant menus and cuisines. It can be used as a pasta or fish topper, a twist on a classic bruschetta or even to create a seafood flatbread.
Live Red King Crab
This is currently exclusive to Fresh Express and comes from the north of Norway. It arrives to the customer live as they are stored in specially designed tanks. The crabs are caught in the fjords by local fishermen and are a speciaity to the region. The red king crabs sometimes reach a carapace width of 28cm (11in) and a leg span of 1.8m (6ft). The species is protected by diplomatic accords between Norway and Russia, with only a few 100 Norwegian fishermen allowed to catch it.
Scottish smoked salmon
Associated Seafoods is keen to emphasise the Scottish provenance of its seafood. All its salmon is 100% Scottish and only sourced from farms the company works incredibly closely with and which practice the best standards of husbandry and care. The salmon is grown, harvested and smoked in Scotland, with very close links and full traceability across the whole supply chain.
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Latest news
UAE-based supplier Fresh Express is aiming to develop and strengthen its position in the regional market, and will soon be processing seafood products in Dubai in-house in a home-made artisan fashion. Fresh Express commercial director Ali Serhal says the firm will supply its customers “with a wide range of interesting products, which we are confident will bring a big smile to all the chefs in UAE”.
He adds: “We are focusing first on elevating the quality and consistency standards, and at the same time bringing down the overall food cost of any kitchen. We are currently in the pre-launch stage, with final touches being made by our production team before we officially introduce this line at the end of the year.”
The firm has also looked at new sources of seafood from around the world, including South America, Africa and even both the North and South Poles. Serhal says: “Though the logistic aspect is challenging, we are very excited to see these high quality and interesting products on the menus of UAE restaurants in the very near future.”
Associated Seafoods Ltd has recently completed its multi-million pound upgrade and modernisation programme of its seafood processing facility in Buckie, north-east Scotland.
The firm’s commercial director, Henry Angus, tells Caterer: “Under the modernisation programme, we have created a dedicated langoustine (nephrops norvegicus) processing area and another state-of-the-art processing sections devoted to crab (cancer pagurus) and scallops (pecten maximus).
“This shellfish side to the business provides a neat complement to our Scottish smoked salmon operation, which also has a dedicated processing area within the same production facility. Major features of this facility include traditional kilns, a dedicated hot smoking area, and the facility to produce an exciting new range of Scottish smoked salmon and cured products.”
Angus says the advantage of processing shellfish and Scottish smoked salmon in the same facility is that because international customers now combine orders of different types of seafood, it provides efficiencies in export costs and broadens product portfolios.
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Top trends
1. Sustainability
According to Fresh Express’ Serhal, true sustainability starts from elements such as respecting the fish’s natural, optimum habitat and diet, and reflecting this in the care of the fish, which is not necessarily information needed to class a fish as sustainably sourced.
2. Traceability
Clearwater Seafoods Middle East sales manager Hanaa Bechache says: “Customers are increasingly interested in the traceability and sustainability of the seafood they source. They also want to ensure that the seafood they are enjoying is coming from a sustainable source, so that they can enjoy it with the certainty that they are making the responsible choice.”
3. Variety and selection
Restaurants want to have a point of difference from their competitors, according to Associated Seafoods’ Angus. He explains: “This is being largely driven by the consumer who is much more knowledgeable and discerning in their tastes.” Bice Mare Dubai executive chef Francesco Guarracino agrees and says: “We’re witnessing the emergence of a new trend: the use of a variety of seafood species which may not necessarily be well known. The focus will be on the uniqueness more than the price.”
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Not only is getting good ingredients important, but being able to utilise them effectively is important. Both chefs and suppliers need to consider certain factors when buying, storing and using their ingredients. We find out what are the important considerations when it comes to fish and seafood:
Are there certain seafood products higher in price as compared to others, and if yes, what are they? Are chefs in this region price-conscious?
Urbano chef de cuisine Shan Pussella says Dubai is a very price competitive market, especially in the seafood sector. He reveals: “At Urbano, we buy a lot of fresh imported fish and the price is a lot higher than in Europe, but quality costs. It is important that chefs focus on a balance between quality and cost for their guests, especially in such a competitive market. Local fish during certain times of the year can be a good option but it is important that the size is correct.”
Fresh Express’ Serhal adds that usually chefs are quality-orientated; however, since most F&B business in the region are owned by investors, chefs have been obliged to look into price more than ever and create a balance between food cost and quality.
Guarracino points out that seafood comes with diverse price tags, depending on the region they are fished from. He says: “For example, wild fish are four times more expensive that their farm counterparts.” However, he says a lot of customers don’t realise the difference in taste. “Diners are very price-conscious, and the market does have cheap seafood that meets the requirements of large corporations for whom profits matter most. For them, quantity beats quality, and the products are just a number, not an experience.”
Roberto’s Mugavero agrees that depending on the variety, the size, the provenance, weather, whether it’s wild or farmed, and quality, the price can differ greatly between products. But he says it’s necessary for chefs to be price-conscious. “It is important to offer a variety of price levels to the customer. We cannot offer only one product at one price; there needs to be a range of prices and options.”
Associated Seafoods’ Angus agrees and says chefs in the Middle East are certainly price-conscious, but are also incredibly aware of the importance of using the best quality seafood and it is all a case of achieving the right balance.
What is the optimal way to store seafood?
There is a general consensus on the storage methods of seafood. The chiller in which the seafood needs to be kept has to stay at a temperature of at least 1-4 degrees.
Serhal adds that ice flakes are the premium way to pack seafood allowing the product to stay at an optimum freshness. He also says: “Live seafood must be kept in specially designed tanks; these tanks provide the animal as close to their natural habitat as possible in terms of temperature, live bacteria in water and oxygen levels.”
Pussella agrees but adds that depending on the variety and cut there are many best practices that can be followed. Mugavero also cautions that fresh seafood should be kept in the chiller for no loner than two days. Guarracino agrees, and says: “Ideally, seafood must not be stored for too long. The earlier you consume it after it has been fished, the better it will taste.”
Are there any wastage concerns chefs need to bear in mind with seafood? What are they?
Waste is a huge concern for chefs in the region, especially as recycling methods are not yet up to par with Western countries.
According to Serhal, one wastage concern is related to cleaning and filleting; the fish loses minimum 30% of its weight, with not all fishmongers having the expertise to fillet a fish with minimum wastage. “We recognised this problem in the industry, and we have introduced specialised machinery to our production unit where chefs can order pre-prepared fish ready to use from us with minimum wastage.”
However, it’s the time factor that chefs need to consider. Pussella says that because fresh seafood has a short shelf life, it is vital that forecasting is accurate. “Wastage can be controlled through a tight and thorough forecasting system which every chef should have,” he adds.
Serhal agrees and notes that especially when served raw, seafood has a very short shelf life, and any fresh fish that exceeds two days shelf life becomes a risk.”
Clearwater Seafoods’ Bechache says to minimise wastage concerns, chefs should look for IQF (individually quick frozen) seafood. “This process ensures that each individual piece of seafood like scallops or shrimp are frozen separately from each other. It allows chefs to use only as much as they need, preventing the thawing and possible wastage of any excess product,” he explains.
Mugavero agrees with chefs needing to buy only according to forecasted usage. Other suggestions he provides are: “You can buy your seafood already prepped (filleted) to save on wastage or if you buy the whole piece and prepare it yourself you can find ways to use the pieces you wouldn’t normally offer to the customer.
For example, you can use the head, tail, shell et cetera to make a stock or a bisque.” Guarracino concurs and says chefs should know how to use the bones, scales and head to make broths, fish stocks, garnish, stuffed pasta and sauces.
Angus agrees and says while his company offers a range of shelled products (which results in no wastage), having the shell-on “can often offer good presentational advantages for a chef, and shells also bring flavour to a dish”.
Are there any challenges in the seafood supply chain?
The supply chain in seafood is subject to a lot of scrutiny. As a supplier, Angus says the biggest problems are keeping the supply chain short, as well as having full traceability throughout the chain. “We are proud that we score well on both points, with shellfish coming direct into our processing facility from fishing boats, and salmon straight from the farm,” he adds.
As another supplier, Clearwater Seafoods’ Bechache says there is a growing demand for sustainably-harvested wild seafood yet a finite supply of it.
“We understand that the only way to continually bring high-quality to the marketplace is to ensure the long-term sustainability of the resource. That’s why Clearwater is directly involved with the science and management processes that are critical to sustainable fishing. Our decades of dedication was recognised by the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), the leading eco-certification when all our core species offerings became certified in 2012.”
Fresh Express’ Serhal agrees with the fact that demand is high in the current market; however, the supply is not yet effectively serving this high demand. He says: “China is paying high prices for seafood and this is increasing the price around the world, which eventually puts pressure on the supply market for price and availability. Which is why we are sourcing from other places around the globe and looking for new and innovative products constantly.” One of his fans is Bice Mare’s Guarracino who has been working with the UAE supplier for three years and says he has access to a wide variety of seafood through the firm.
Pussella points out that during holiday periods the supply chain can be effected heavily. “Flights can be delayed, customs officials are under greater pressure due to increased volumes, which has a knock-on effect to suppliers and chefs. When working with fresh produce with such shelf life, your timeframes are even tighter.”
Mugavero says the hot months are a challenge, along with quantities ordered: “In the summer it is very difficult to receive nice seafood, with the heat they do not deliver a lot of options. Another difficulty is that we order from many different places around the world and most of the time they require a minimum order to be able to deliver to Dubai. So when you are dealing with an item that is highly perishable, like seafood, it is not always easy to order in large quantities.”
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Roberto’s executive chef Andrea Mugavero reveals how to create pan seared sea bass with potato, artichokes, sun-dried tomato and olive taggiasche with fresh basil
Serves 1
Ingredients:
- 200g sea bass fillet
- 100g potato
- 15g sun-dried cherry tomato
- 50ml olive oil
- 15g olives, seedless
- Maldon salt
- Black pepper
- Basil
Method:
- Peel the potato and boil it in hot unsalted water for 10 minutes, then strain.
- Peel the artichoke until tender, leaf and cut it in wedge side.
- Pan sear the sea bass fillet in a non-stick pan with oil for 3-4 minutes on each side.
- Heat one non-stick pan, add little oil and sauté the potato and artichoke together for 3-4 minutes. Add sun-dried tomato, with salt and pepper.
- Place this on the centre of the plate and finish with the sea bass on the top and garnish with fresh basil, Maldon salt, cherry tomato, and black olive taggiasche.