Ingredient Focus 2015: Cheese
Shaheen Nouman explores what’s new and trending in the world of cheese, with an insight from chefs who work with this versatile ingredient on a daily basis
How does the increasing awareness about dairy intolerance affect the business?
If you are in the food industry, it is essential to cater for those with allergies and intolerances. Per Te Ristorante e Café executive chef Gladwin Anton says: “Dairy intolerance is one of the most common issues, though it should not be confused with a true allergy to dairy products. For most people who have dairy intolerance, it is simply unpleasant to consume dairy foods, which trigger problems such as nausea, stomach pain, gas, bloating, and bowel disturbances.
“It is mainly caused from foods which still contain significant amounts of milk solids. These contain lactose and casein which can trigger problems.”
Andiamo chef de cuisine David Concas agrees and adds: “Customers are important and it is the chef’s duty to make sure that they are served according to their preferences, especially those with allergies and intolerances — as any mistake from the chef’s end would mean that they don’t return to the restaurant. In our line of business, it’s all about identifying the guests’ needs and then giving them what they are looking for.
“Dairy intolerance affects businesses such as cheese-makers more than restaurateurs or chefs as we are able to offer plenty of different choices to people with dairy intolerance. Over the last few years, I have made it a practice to add cheese as the last ingredient before the plate is ready to be served to the guest.”
Tre by Roberto Rella executive chef Ernesto Tonetto credits availability of alternatives for not being affected. “It does not influence the business because these days there are plenty of companies that supply products that are made especially for people with dairy intolerance and allergies.”
What are the optimum ways of storing cheese?
If cheese is not stored properly, it can make a world of difference for the final taste and appearance. Living cheeses are what make customers happy, not dead ones!
Concas says: “In ancient times, the best way was to keep cheeses inside la cantina (cave) because it was fresh and dry at the same time. Today, there are many different ways for storing cheese properly. Firstly, you must separate fresh cheese from hard ones.
Fresh ones must be preserved inside their own water, like mozzarella, paneer, and feta, and kept in the fridge for a few days, and must be consumed fast in order to maintain their proper flavours. Hard cheeses are a little more complicated; wrap it with a wet cloth, like cotton, and keep it in the fridge.
Make sure that the cloth does not smell like any detergent, otherwise it will pass on to the cheese. For a short period, like a week, it can be stored in a typical plastic cling wrap or a plastic container with hermetic cover.” Tonetto adds that 'the best temperature to maintain cheese is 10-15°C covered with a special cloth.
Anton, however, raises a red flag and warns against storing in plastic bags for too long. “Never use plastic — the worst way to store cheese is with plastic wrap because cheese is mostly oily and with fat. After a few days, it will actually start to take on the flavour of the plastic.
“Don’t wrap it too tightly or loosely. Cheese has a natural smell, the most significant being ammonia’s pungent smell. If you’re not leaving your cheese room to breathe, it’s not only going to smell and taste like plastic, it’s going to smell and taste like ammonia. However, if you wrap your cheese too loose, you’ll end up with dried out and hardened chunks, which is just as bad.”
La Classique chef de cuisine Remi Verrier suggests vacuum bags. “To ensure cheese is stored properly to maintain its quality, we use special vacuum bags, and always separate different types of cheese. The vacuum bags are left slightly open before being stored in the refrigerator. The exception to this rule is blue cheese — Roquefort, Stilton et cetera — these should always be wrapped in foil and placed in the refrigerator. A common mistake is to wrap blue cheese in cling film, as this actually dries it out.”
Anton adds cheese bags as an alternative. “Store cheese using cheese bags or cheese paper — it will protect the cheese from air exposure and still allow it to breathe.”
In addition, keeping a track of storage and expiry dates is very important, as Anton explains. “Note the date. Before you put it in the fridge, label your cheese with the date you wrapped it. It is very important that we keep a track on the expiry date of the cheese as it is very sensitive and any negligence will result in illness.”
Besides traditional methods, there are other alternatives to store cheese for an extended time period, while ensuring that the cheese stays fresh. Eurial International industrial product manager Delphine Pelfresne shares one such alternative. “Eurial used Individually Quick Frozen Technology (IQF) technology to develop a range of frozen cheeses with increased shelf life, without compromising on the taste, qualities and functionalities.”
Article continues on next page ...
How popular would you say cheese is in the Middle East region? Which kind is the most popular?
“Interestingly, there are rumours that the first cheese makers were in fact Middle Eastern nomadic goat herders. There is no evidence to back this up; however, the Middle East is home to a number of popular cheeses that are regularly seen on the menus here in Dubai,” cites Anton.
The popularity of cheese is not restricted to a particular nationality or region. Concas says: “I can say from my own experience that cheese is very popular in the Middle East, especially at breakfast time, like cold mezze. Also, I see a lot of Arab guests eating Italian cheese with fruits after dinner.”
Verrier adds that it is equally popular with the expat population in the region. “Brie continues to be a very popular cheese. People who maintain a healthy diet will opt for a goat cheese as it is lower in fat and definitely the ‘healthiest’ of the cheese options.”
Tonetto comments: “The most popular cheese is Parmigiano Reggiano and Grana Padano. This is not only in the Middle East but all over the world.”
Other options mentioned include shanklish, feta, labneh, akkawi and halloumi as the most popular choices in Middle East.
Is sourcing cheese a challenge? What are the main obstacles in the supply chain?
Sourcing cheese doesn’t seem to be a challenge any more, say experts. Concas says: “I don’t feel sourcing cheese is a big issue, but to find a good cheese… that is a different story. My advice is to take it from the original country if you want to taste the real flavour, especially if it’s fresh cheese.”
Moreover, ordering in advance is crucial to ensure timely delivery and the availability of required variety. Concas concludes: “Never forget that life is too short to eat cheap cheeses. Choose accurately what you want and enjoy it!”
Article continues on next page ...
Latest news
Infected cheese recalled from Carrefour
The Ministry of Economy, in co-operation with Carrefour, has begun recalling ‘Perail’ cheese as the product was tested positive for bacteria, reported Emirates 24/7.
The cheese was said to contain bacteria called listeria monocytogenes, which causes listeriosis, with an incubation period that may reach up to eight weeks. The ministry asked consumers who have bought the product to dispose it or return it to Carrefour immediately.
Carrefour had also placed a warning poster at all its outlets to inform people, and appeal to those who consumed the product and showed symptoms such as fever and headache, to visit a doctor.
Top trends
Non-dairy cheese, says Andiamo chef de cuisine David Concas. He explains: “My Italian and international experience says the main trend is cheese without dairy. With problems related to allergies such as gluten, dairy, nuts, et cetera, the trend is to make cheese or cheese products with the right taste and appearances but without dairy. Will that be favourable and work? I’m not so sure, but it will allow those who are lactose-intolerant to enjoy the prospect of having cheese.”
Burrata mozzarella, says La Classique chef de cuisine Remi Verrier. He says: “Recently, we have seen more and more dishes which include burrata mozzarella. Burrata is an Italian cheese made from mozzarella and cream with a firmer shell and unusually soft, creamy centre. Burrata, meaning ‘buttered’ in Italian, has a fresh and memorable taste.”
Microbiological rennet, says Per Te Ristorante e Café executive chef Gladwin Anton, who says: “The cheese industry is now concentrating on healthy cheeses. Basically, cheese is made with rennet but nowadays people prefer consuming cheese made with microbiological rennet, as it is healthier compared to normal rennet.”
Goat cheese, says Mulwarra Export managing director Greg Darwell. “In general, goat dairy products, and more specifically goat cheese, are becoming increasingly popular because of its higher digestibility compared to other dairy products, as well as higher level of cultures (the ‘friendly bacteria’). Although there is concern of high intake of dairy, namely milk, cheese is a product that is rich in nutritional content, when consumed in reasonable volumes.”
Article continues on next page ...
Products
Flavoured Cheese
Meredith Dairy Goat Cheese in extra virgin olive oil, supplied by Mulwarra Export, is soft goat cheese cubes marinated in extra virgin olive oil infused with garlic, spices and fresh herbs. Available in a jar, the creamy texture and tangy flavour makes it a versatile ingredient. This cheese can be served with roasted vegetables and crusty bread, or can be served as part of an antipasto, with pasta, pizzas, vegetables or salads.
Frozen Cheese
Eurial International has applied Individually Quick Frozen Technology (IQF) technology to the cheese process to create a range of value-added products, which are easy to use, effective and safe with all their nutritional qualities completely preserved. The product line includes slices of organic goat cheese to organic cream cheese, Palet Cabécou, mozzarella balls, smoked Provolone slices and blue cheese crumble.