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Nature's liquid gold


Hotelier Middle East Staff, June 23rd, 2008

Olive oil consumption is growing as the region's restaurants respond to the increased demands of health-conscious consumers.

The health benefits of olive oil are making a big impact in the Middle East with health-conscious consumers driving-up the demand for olive oil products according to chefs.

InterContinental Hotels Group (IHG) Dubai, Grosvenor House, Park Hyatt Dubai and Al Murooj Rotana Hotel & Suites all report a steady increase in olive oil consumption in the last year.

"We use 150-200 litres of olive oil a month and this figure is definitely growing.

"More frequent events are also contributing to our increased usage," comments IHG executive chef Geoff Haviland.

Suppliers agree that the demand for olive oil products has attracted a range of new suppliers to the region with bigger volumes and inventories at their disposal.

"Our yearly export average is about 250,000l with an approximate growth of 20% to the Middle East in the last year," says La Boella general manager José Cuesta.



"Olive oil export to the region has been gaining pace for the last three to four years, with an exceptional increase in 2007-2008," adds Moreno export department manager Jesús Jiménez.

Many suppliers to the region attribute this growth to a more educated consumer base, which is starting to appreciate the health benefits of olive oil products.

"People in the Middle East are starting to understand the difference in health and quality between olive oil and other oil products, which is steadily changing their consumption habits," says Jiménez.

Scientific research suggests that the higher proportion of mono-unsaturated fats in olive oil is linked with a reduction in the risk of coronary heart disease.

As a result, consumers of olive oil products "live longer and healthier lives", according to chef director of Le Royal Méridien Beach Resort & Spa and Grosvenor House Partick Lannes.

"Certain oils are known to have some health benefits, such as improving blood circulation and cholesterol levels.

"Some oils also act as antioxidants and protect the body from free radicals and the ageing of cell membranes," says Al Murooj Rotana executive chef Joachim Textor.

In recent years, educated consumers and the thriving economy has led to an increase in exports to the region according to Jiménez.

"We export more pure olive oil than extra virgin oil to the UAE than in Europe, because consumers have more knowledge of its healthy characteristics and economic growth is greater."

This has led to a more diverse range of products now available in the market according to Shangri-La executive chef Lars Munier.

"Olive oil is a popular constituent and is now available in a variety of brands from different origins including Lebanon, Italy, Spain, Syria, Tunisia and Morocco."

Locally-produced olive oil is widely used in the Middle East, with a range of quality products available on the market says Park Hyatt Dubai's executive chef Steffen Gubbe.
 

"We like to support the local market and show customers and chefs what we are able to get delivered from the local region, so we use extra virgin olive oil from Syria and organic olive oil from Jordan and Turkey."

The Grosvenor House sources its extra virgin olive oil from Jordan, France, Italy and Australia as "each country's oil has a definite and noticeable taste, so this adds a certain quality to the food," comments Lannes.

Restaurants are requesting more specialist products to differentiate their cuisines from competition according to the region's suppliers.

Al Murooj Rotana uses a variety of oils including specialist Italian Tangerine Olive Oil and Australian Dandaragan Olive Oil, which "beats many Italian olive oils in quality and flavour", says Textor.

The increased availability of olive oil products is also contributing to menu development and innovation explains Munier.

"We continue to improvise and diversify our menus because the number of uses for this ingredient seems to be increasing, both for its unique flavours and excellent health values that contribute to a healthier lifestyle.



The Middle East olive oil market is maturing so quickly that it is rapidly catching up with the European market comments Jordan Valley Marriott Dead Sea Resort & Spa executive sous chef Roberto Kunitz.

"In some Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe you can sometimes find olive oil sommeliers and whole menus, from starter to dessert, specifically designed using different kinds of olive oil.

"It will not be long before we see the same in this region," he said.

Although there are now many products available on the market, the challenge "is to spot the ones with the best flavour and quality, amongst all these competitive alternatives", says Munier.

Arabic cuisine, like traditional Mediterranean-style cuisine uses a lot of olive oil as a base ingredient, especially for sauces and dressings and so demand will continue to increase says Gube.

"Healthy meals that are low in cholesterol and sodium have been becoming increasingly popular in recent times and consequently the demand for olive oil is rocketing."

 

Oily innovations

Recent technical advances made by a group of young Spanish chefs have changed the age-old image of olive oil from the guest of honour in salads, fried foods and cooked dishes to the star ingredient in ice-creams, sorbets and semolinas.

• Three-star Michelin chef Berasategui developed olive oil ice cream.

"Extraction techniques and olive oil quality are improving year by year, to the extent that we can now devise recipes on the basis of the varied aromas and flavours of olive oil - acidity and bitterness, and that includes deserts."

• Fifteen years ago, chef Ange Garcia of London-based tapas restaurant, Albero & Grana, created the first olive oil sorbet.

"We are the true pioneers of sorbets. It was born because we were keen to replace the cream and butter with olive oil to get a smoother texture."

• Other important innovations in recent years have been the use of new thickeners and emulsifiers, as well as liquid nitrogen.

Dani Garcia, dubbed the "king of cold", the chef at Calima restaurant in Magala, created an olive oil-based semolina.

"Spraying olive oil over gas at -195°C (-319°F) extracts tiny golden pearls of pure virgin olive oil that doesn't leave a single trace of fat behind on the tongue."