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Ingredient Focus: Pastry


Sarah Jacotine, April 19th, 2016

Products

American Sweet Bakery — CSM
From brownies to cookie dough, American pastries and dessert options have for a long time been the envy of the world. CSM Bakery Solutions’ latest offering is a concept of American Sweet Bakery products including American-inspired mixes, toppings and fillings.

“These components allow our customers to prepare a large variety of authentic American pastries, satisfying a growing trend throughout the world,” says channel marketing director, Michael Pruss.

Frozen-fresh fruit — Baqer Mohebi
With summer fast approaching, Baqer Mohebi is on hand with the latest in fruit favourites. The firm has teamed up with Andros to supply UAE and Oman customers with frozen-fresh fruit offerings including fruit compotes to be used cold as accompaniments to desserts, fresh cheese and yoghurt and also fruit purées that can be used for macarons, fruit sorbets, ice cream and mousses. Baqer Mohebi boasts the “versatility” of the new products which have 80% fruit content and just 10% added sugar.

Gluten-free cakes — La Marquise
Gluten-free is fast trending globally and the Middle East is no exception. La Marquise has launched three gluten-free cake offerings it hopes will cater to rising demand. The three flavours are cinnamon and apple, red velvet, and carrot, which La Marquise claims are “among the top favourite flavours of UAE consumers”. The carrot cake mix can double up as banana bread. Silvia Persico, business development manager, La Marquise International adds that the beauty of the new range, which forms La Marquise’s Palais du Chef brand, is “you cannot tell they are gluten free as they taste just as great as the original recipes”.

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Operations

Millennials and their demands

Globally there has been a push in the food and beverage industry towards simpler ingredients and transparency in labelling of products.

The demand, stemming mainly from millennial consumers being more switched on with regards to what they are consuming, has seen multinationals from the likes of Nestlé to Mondelez International and numerous others pledge to eliminate artificial colours and flavours from certain foodstuffs.

“People are curious to know more about the food that they are eating and their nutritional facts,” says Mazen Marakebji, marketing manager, Baqer Mohebi.

The “digital era” Marakebji adds, has only magnified this issue further, with consumers actively researching what is healthy and what is not at the push of a button. “People tend to buy tasty products providing clean label ingredients which are good for health. We’ve guaranteed this in all of our Puratos branded products,” he adds.

Despite the push towards clean label, consumers are under no illusion that pastry is the healthiest of products, argues La Serre Bistro & Boulangerie chef Waddah Bou Saad.

Nevertheless, he seems confident that the move to seeking out better-for-you options is not “having an adverse effect” on the demand for traditional artisan pastries. “We believe in eating everything in moderation and our customers enjoy our desserts as a treat every once in a while,” he adds.

Paul Hurley, chef at Dum Dum Donuterrie, agrees, adding that a recent health push has not seen health “take precedence” over indulgence when it comes to pastry. Instead, he believes what consumers are after from food firms, outlets and chefs, is honesty in what they are delivering.

“Dum Dums are doughnuts so it’s definitely a treat.  However, we don’t believe in the unnecessary fat that comes from floating dough in a vat of cheap oil.  We are very vigilant about the use of good ingredients so if you are having a cheat day then may as well have the highest quality and not junk,” he asserts.

The free-from movement

While Aramtec pastry division manager Riyadh Hassan agrees that the "health aspect is still not a priority for people who want to indulge in eating pastry and bakery products" one area in the health-conscious arena that is growing in size and popularity quickly is the 'free-from' movement.

Gluten-free makes up a significant part of this and according to Euromonitor, in 2013, the gluten-free food industry across the Middle East was worth US$13.6m. By 2018 it is forecast to reach $18.1m. Much of this audience is gluten intolerant says La Marquise’s Silvia Persico.

“Unfortunately this figure is growing year-on-year. The demand of customers pushes restaurant operators to expand their menus by adding gluten-free pastry and bakery products,” she adds.

It has seen a rise in the number of products on the market that make gluten-free claims and food outlets offering gluten-free food options. There’s also been an increase in the number of dedicated gluten-free outlets across the Middle East with the likes of Sweet Connection and Skinny Genie in the UAE to name a few.

Despite this, it is not always plain sailing when it comes to offering a gluten-free option, says Perera.

“While the number of customers requesting gluten free products is growing, the bakery and pastry industry has not been fully supported by its suppliers as to offer a wide range of ingredients.

“Other challenges faced are to ensure staff understand the health risks of cross contamination associated with food intolerance, presenting gluten-free alternatives in an appealing way, and above all, the cost factor,” he explains.

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Sourcing challenges

This issue really is a double-edged sword. With chefs desperate to deliver quality to their customers, the only way they can do so is by incorporating quality ingredients into their dishes and so rely on their suppliers to bring in the best when it comes to ingredients. Of course “the best” comes with a certain price attached.

Ramada Plaza JBR pastry chef Prashan Perera says: “Procuring and sourcing ingredients can be difficult to find from right suppliers, and most of them are very expensive, incurring high costs.

"This also means we have to ensure efficient product management to avoid wastage and balance the cost coverage. Due to increasing prices of ingredients and the budget allocated to the pastry division, it is challenging to make desserts.”

From a supplier point of view, sourcing quality ingredients, though top of their agenda, is just as challenging. “Sourcing of raw materials is a challenge, especially when it comes to nuts and cocoa beans.

"The prices of these items are unstable due to weather conditions,” says Persico, adding that as a result, the end product prices also vary from one production to another.

Cost is inevitably an uncontrollable factor when it comes to pastry due to the commodities involved. Saad, however, is of the view that this is a factor that must be accepted in order to deliver a product of a high standard.

“The costs of ingredients are continuously increasing. We source our ingredients locally where possible, but in order to keep the traditional flavours of France in our pastries, we import the specialist ingredients like butter and chocolate from Europe, which inevitably pushes the cost of production up. Staying ahead of the game in terms of making the right products for the market at the right price is an ongoing challenge, but one that keeps the pastry industry on its toes,” he comments.

Aramtec's Hassan shares his thoughts on sourcing ingredients: "The main challenge we face right now is the price of European butter, which has been fluctuating for the last 18 months."

He added that "a massive increase in milk production and supply worldwide (EU, US, New Zealand and Australia)" is a contributory factor.

Quality remains key

Price is always a factor when it comes to anything, and while outlets — particularly in the Middle East where consumers demand high standards — are willing to pay, the pressure is on suppliers to ensure the quality of their deliveries is second-to-none. Of course, that depends on a good relationship between supplier and chef.

“When suppliers are delivering the items, chefs request the items are maintained at the right temperature and the freshness is high,” says Perera. “It’s all about the quality and if the ingredients are sub-standard, that will really affect the quality of end product for our consumers.”

Saad says in the pastries that he uses, there is a high reliance on chocolate and good quality chocolate is what ultimately determines the success of the product. He opts for Valrhona as his ingredient of choice in the classic éclair.

“It’s an extremely important ingredient, and although versatile, it needs to be used with sensitivity to allow you to experiment and really push the boundaries of pastry,” he reveals.

But it is not just chocolate where there is an expectation in pastry for high quality supply. Hurley says that customers are starting to see through their foods into what ingredients are used, and that too affects the needs of a chef.

“If I order fruit purée, I want just fruit, not added ingredients that help with shelf-life or processing. We do not use GMOs, hydrogenated fats or artificial ingredients,” he adds, which is a nod to the millennial consumer of today demanding a cleaner ingredient profile in their foods.

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RECIPE

Ramada Plaza JBR pastry chef Prashan Perera shares his hazelnut cake, roasted white chocolate parfait, mango brunoise jelly & coconut cream raspberry gelato with raspberry confit recipe.

Ingredients:

Hazelnut cake

• 750g pasteurised egg white
• 250g caster sugar
• 600g icing sugar
• 600g hazelnut powder
• 50g chopped hazelnut

Roasted white chocolate parfait

• 110g white chocolate
• 25g fresh cream
• 1pcs gelatin
• 200g warm cream
• 875g whipped cream
• 60g pasteurised egg yolk
• 38g caster sugar

Mango brunoise jelly

• 2 pcs fresh mango cubes
• 90g mango puree
• 1 nos vanilla bean
• 5g yellow pectin
• 45g soft brown sugar
Coconut cream
• 50g coconut puree
• 200g caster sugar
• 750g whipped cream
• 12g gelatin
Raspberry gelato
• 125ml milk
• 65ml thickened cream
• 2pcs egg yolk
• 40g caster sugar
• 125g raspberry puree
• 3g lemon juice
• 13g caster sugar
Raspberry confit
• 20g raspberry puree
• 20g caster sugar
• 5g frozen raspberry
• 5g water

Method:

• Hazelnut cake: Preheat the oven (180°C). In a mixing bowl, whisk the egg white with 250g of sugar until it is a soft peak. Mix with all of the dry ingredients

• Roasted white chocolate parfait: Spread the chopped white chocolate on a silicone mat and toast until golden in the oven (160°C). Remove and mix with warm cream and gelatin. Make sabayon mix with chocolate mixture and whipped cream.

• Mango brunoise jelly: In a saucepan, heat the puree, add the sugar with pectin. Keep boiling until 103°C. Add the vanilla bean and mango cubes.

• Coconut cream: In a small saucepan, heat the coconut puree with sugar, add the gelatin then remove from the heat and let it cool. Add whipped cream once cool.

• Raspberry gelato: Place the milk and cream in a saucepan. In another saucepan place the raspberry purée, caster sugar and 3g lemon juice over a medium heat. Bring to the boil. Pour the mixture into a chilled container, cover with foil and place in the freezer for six hours or until firm but still slightly soft in the centre. Use a metal spoon to roughly break up the gelato and transfer this to a food processor to process until smooth. Place the gelato back in the cool container; cover with foil and freeze overnight or until firm.

News

Macarons to hit menu at Ramada Plaza JBR
After bagging nine medals at this year’s Gulfood event, the Ramada Plaza JBR team is exploring ways to step up its offering and has announced that macarons will be on the hotel’s menu soon. “Trends in sweets come and go, but for some time now, it seems that dessert at every meal is preferred in favour of occasional premium indulgence,” asserts pastry chef Prashan Perera.

“In the near future, we are going to utilise the French macaron as part of our pastry selection. Macarons are light-as-a-feather French confections that can be assembled pulling from a mix-and-match palette of sweet fillings and bases,” he adds

CSM Bakery encourages customers to go green
Sustainability in all forms is a global trend, with many people trying to do their bit to help ensure a longer life for the planet and its inhabitants. CSM Bakery Solutions started its journey towards sustainable sourcing in 2010 and is today offering its customers the opportunity to select from one of the three Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) sourcing models. “CSM actively supports customers who wish to follow the RSPO vision of sustainable palm oil. This is possible as all CSM factories are RSPO certified,” reveals CSM channel marketing director, Michael Pruss.

Top trends

- Back to basics

There has always been something appealing about tiny things. Though quality is key there has been a marked shift towards smaller portions in pastry, according to Mazen Marakebji, marketing manager, Baqer Mohebi. “Big things are not attractive or appealing any longer. We’ve seen a move toward small portions. In terms of perception, consumers seem to believe smaller portions deliver higher quality.”

- The best things in life are free

Whether it’s dairy or gluten, free-from options are on the rise, particularly in bakery and pastry. La Marquise reports that 6-7% of the UAE’s population is gluten intolerant and the move toward this category is not always for reasons of allergies or intolerances, but with consumers perceiving such options as better for their health too.

- Healthier options

According to 2015 figures from the International Diabetes Federation, 37 million people are living with diabetes in the Middle East and North Africa, which represents about 9.7% of the population. That figure, it forecasts, will nearly double in the next 20 years.

Consumer awareness of this disease has risen, prompting a shift in dietary habits.

“We are working to satisfy that need, finding a balance between decadence and health,” says CSM’s Michael Pruss. “Our Sunfry Baking doughnuts are award-winning products for reaching the balance between indulgent taste and health and wellness. With at least 40% less fat than the standard donut and significantly less saturated fat and calories, with no compromise to taste, these donuts are the ideal treat.”