Cuisine focus: Steak

Exploring the enduring popularity of steaks and what's new in the cuisine in the GCC region 

How popular are steaks here?
Clive Pereira, chef de cuisine, West 14th: Steak has long been a popular choice around the region and this has led to a prevalence of steak-based outlets.

Matt Dahlkemper, executive chef, Firebird: Steak is a favourite menu item in the region. People are becoming more educated about beef — where the best cuts come from, organic products and produce in general. This has enabled chefs to utilise only the best products and produce, despite the fact that sometimes the price is a little higher.

Brian Voelzing, head chef, The Hide: Demand for high quality beef has increased with sales reflecting that. Guests increasingly want to know where their steaks come from; provenance is high on their priority list when choosing their steak.

Daniel Ferreira, chef de cuisine, St Regis Dubai: I have noticed an increase in the sales of steak within the region and people are becoming more knowledgeable, demanding better quality. I notice our diners are passionate about their beef and ask educated questions about farm-to-fork procedures.

Stuart Kohler, brand manager, Butcher Shop & Grill: Steak is popular in the region as there is a large western influence here. Unlike obscure cuisines that are more gimmicky and only attract a diner once in a while, steakhouses are timeless.

Avinash Mohan, executive chef, The Address Dubai Marina: We all love our meats in the Middle East and what is a better place to have the best meats than a steakhouse. The love for steakhouses has only grown phenomenally and will continue to grow. They are becoming trendier, healthier and quality conscious.

Latest trends in steakhouses?
Pereira: With health and wellness becoming increasingly important, there is a growing trend towards conscious dining decisions, incorporating healthier choices. West 14th will always carry prime cuts of beef (sirloin, tenderloin, rib eye, t-bone/porter house) but I have noticed a trend in sourcing secondary cuts of meat (beef cheeks, brisket, flank, offal). Also, along with the rise of gourmet burgers, different blends and fat ratios of chuck steak are more common.

Dahlkemper: Taking it back to basics is becoming popular. I have seen restaurants focus on the gimmick aspects as opposed to serving amazing food, serving overdressed cuts of beef with components that don’t belong on the plate. When you truly have an excellent cut, there is no need for frills; just salt and pepper, and let the steak speak for itself.

Voelzing: Steakhouses are becoming more approachable and relaxed, catering to a younger crowd, and offering more affordable cuts of meat.Many steakhouses now focus on large cuts of beef, as well as dry-aged beef.

Kohler: Steakhouses need to be flexible and innovative. For instance, the old fashioned flat steak is still popular but other forms are proving to be increasingly attractive to diners. Espatadas are now one of our most popular dishes, as are regular cuts on the bone.

Ferreira: As chefs, we will always try to utilise the less popular cuts because they often have a better flavour profile, are more versatile and can be better value. Restaurants are offering more cuts on the bone, which helps enhance the flavours, and using secondary cuts — with chefs trying to educate the public about these cuts.

Yvan Rocher, chef de cuisine/manager, M’s Beef Bistro: Owing to changing dietary preferences, steakhouses are adapting to various common food allergies, so it is now easier to find gluten-free, dairy-free and even vegetarian offerings.

Ben Heaton, executive chef, Weslodge: Dry ageing is a big trend now in steakhouses, to assist the flavour of the beef.

Mohan: Every steakhouse is striving to attract millennial set. Young, food obsessed urbanites, who are cuisine curious. In addition to this, steakhouses are implementing new methods of cooking the meat. For example, sous vide steak finished on a grill has become a fast rising favourite. Also, we love to say ‘the old technique is now the new technique’ - wood was always used by our ancestors to cook up their meats and now the chefs are adopting the same at a lot of high-end steakhouses. The wood not only gives a perfect finish but imparts an distinctive smokiness to the meat. The use of giant cuts is another trend set by steakhouses, since it's slow cooked, making it even more flavourful. Grass-fed meat has quickly become a popular choice, however connoisseurs still prefer grain-fed meat, which ranks higher in the marble score of the meat.

What challenges do you face with steaks?
Pereira: Demand from our customers for both a high quality and value-for-money dining experience. This means that we spend more time than ever sourcing the best steaks available that enable us to meet these criteria. An equal amount of time is then spent treating, preparing and cooking the meat to optimise flavour and retain client loyalty.

Dahlkemper: Product is a constant trial and tribulation as we will only serve the highest quality premium cuts, and we must reassure customers that the products and price are in line. You get what you pay for.

Voelzing: Sourcing the best and consistent produce in the region are challenges. As we dry-age our beef we have a massive time frame and yield variation that can be difficult to work with.

Heaton: As with any food product, consistency is always the big issue, so you have to develop great relationships with your suppliers.

Ferreira: People are often unaware of the correct temperatures steak should be eaten at. When someone orders a full blood wagyu well done, a little part of the chef’s soul dies. This is such a great piece of meat that when we have to cremate it, we weep. People are becoming more aware but it’s definitely the job of the servers and chefs to help educate the public about how the variations in the temperature of a steak can completely change the flavour and texture.

Voelzing: When it comes to importing chilled products there are challenges that vary enormously between the GCC countries. Forecasting needs to be precise and exact, and documentation and freight delays can cause havoc. Quality and consistency issues can be eliminated by purchasing the right product from larger reputable producers.

Mohan: The biggest challenge with the ever growing popularity of good meats is the increase in the prices for the same. In addition to this, increasing competition is definitely a positive challenge in Dubai, as it pushes us to think innovatively and see what is currently in demand.

How’s the supply stream?
Pereira: Our beef is imported from the US, Canada, Australia and Ireland, and we have three deliveries per week. I also have stock on hand for those extra-busy lunches or evenings, as well as a reserve of dry-aged meat. We work with several reputed Dubai-based suppliers to ensure that the supply chain runs smoothly.

Voelzing: Our meat is imported from all over the world: Spain, the US, Ireland and Australia.

Dahlkemper: I source our meat from Creekstone Ranch, which has cattle across the mid-western region of the US — it is a personal favourite of mine. Australia also produces great cattle, so I like to test out Australian meat to ensure that we are constantly inspecting other markets and making sure we have the best of the best.

Ferreira: We import all our beef products. When importing, consistency can vary. One week you receive a great product that has been aged correctly and the marbling profiles are incredible, then a week later you can receive the same beef but it’s been slaughtered too young and not allowed to age for long enough.

Rocher: In the UAE, we are fortunate with the top quality meat we can source. Our main meats are prime American, Australian (Wagyu), New Zealander, Argentinian and Irish. We are also introducing Kobe from Japan in May’s menu. The supply stream is very good in Dubai.

Kohler: In most GCC countries there are good local importers. In others, we import directly from producers in South Africa.

Heaton: We import some meats and also look at the local market. We like to give guests variety: our steaks are from Canada, the US, Australia and Japan.

Mohan: We buy our meats from local suppliers, who source the meat from different locations, primarily from the US and Australia, which are two of the best cattle resources. Some specialty cuts also come from New Zealand and Japan.