Hotelier Middle East Logo
 

Cuisine Focus: French


Claudia De Brito, June 11th, 2017

How popular would you say French cuisine is in the region?

Jonathan Vercoutere & Julien Pilard, co-founders, Bistro des Arts: French cuisine in Dubai and in general in the Middle East was for a long time considered as fine dining and therefore not as popular as some other European/international cuisine since it was more a cuisine of events or celebrations such as birthdays, anniversary etc. People understand the quality and the finesse of French food but do not consider it as an everyday meal. While the region prefers the spices and the safe choices that the market offers, we now see more and more casual French eateries such as Bistro Des Arts and Publique that provide value for money “terroir" food which is more of a comfort food approach and much more accessible.

Alexis Couquelet, co-founder and corporate chef at Couqley: I think that French food is very popular in this region. With so many French people living in the Middle East, and so many locals travelling to and from France, the popularity has and will continue to grow.French food is classic and timeless, it never gets boring.

Jeremy Degras, executive chef, Chez Charles: French cuisine is highly admired wherever you go. It is a reference for great flavours and techniques. Dubai specifically is becoming a culinary destination for several cuisines and the contemporary French is going to be more and more popular.

Omar Basiony, chef de cuisine, Traiteur, Park Hyatt Dubai: French cuisine is notably one of the most prevalent cuisines in the world, renowned for its sophisticated flavours and artistic presentation. Therefore it is no surprise that Dubai has a variety of esteemed French restaurants, Traiteur being one of them.

Rory Duncan, executive chef, La Petite Maison Dubai: As a general appreciation of the public, it is very popular.  French with a Mediterranean influence has even more leverage because of the climate. Dishes are light, fresh and healthy.

Have you noticed any trends in French cuisine?

Vercoutere & Pilard: Same as Italian cuisine French has always been a trendy cuisine over the world, however today the French cuisine is more a Mediterranean cuisine. I strongly believe that no restaurant in Dubai is offering a proper traditional French cuisine from “terroir”.

Couquelet: Gastro style French cuisine has been popular for years but I’ve noticed that more and more chefs are going back to the traditional and simple authenticity that makes French cuisine so unique. Bistro style food is making its mark again.

Degras: Contemporary French cuisine is now bringing flavors from around the world. A lot of international but subtle influence is the trend.

Basiony: It has been very popular to pair French cuisine with modern twists such as Mediterranean or Asian. However, I feel the current trend is moving back to a more traditional style of French cooking, where simple ingredients are combined to enhance their natural and rich flavours.

Duncan: Deformalised bistro food from Michelin-starred chefs is a big thing as well as small producers and artisan. Sustainable food sources and cooking methods are the top culinary priorities. The focus is now all about the product, and being able to reflect the true flavour without altering it through so much transformation. People want good, honest food based on amazing ingredients, but cooked in a simple way; authentic flavours and recipes, served in a refined yet simple manner.

What are some challenges you face when it comes to French cuisine?

Vercoutere & Pilard: When it comes to proper French cuisine it is always complicated as most of the old recipes are heavy and rich and the trend today is more on the healthy side. This is why we adapt ourselves to that but at Bistro Des Arts we keep offering some terroir dishes.

Couquelet: I think one of the biggest challenges I face when it comes to French cuisine is educating the diners on the various cuts of meats and sauces we have available.  Entrecote, being the crowd favourite, is always a great choice, but I would like to see people take more risks and try new things like a flank steak.

Degras: There is the challenge of the perception related to pricing that needs to be switched. You can have a delicious quality French meal for a reasonable price.

Basiony: I would not say there is a specific challenge solely for French cooking, but like many chefs, I strive to be original whilst also staying true to the origins of each style of cuisine, finding the perfect balance takes time and dedication.

Duncan: The biggest challenge for us in this region is getting products that match our expectations. Getting the freshest possible products is a challenge.

Is it easy to source the ingredients that you need?

Vercoutere & Pilard: Very easy. Today Dubai is a massive platform and whatever we want we get it.

Couquelet: It can be difficult at times, especially when it comes to finding ingredients all year round when most produce is seasonal.  Learning to create and source your dishes with what is available seasonally and locally has so many benefits and makes cooking that much more enjoyable. In general, I find it simple to source everything I need.

Degras: The ingredients used daily are handpicked from the world renowned markets. We select the finest. Fruits and vegetables are sometimes a challenge. When in season in France, Italy or around the Mediterranean, we need them here hours after the harvest.

Basiony: We import a lot of our produce directly from France, from cheese, truffles and foie gras. This ensures the authenticity of products and therefore the quality of what we serve; and we have never faced any challenges in doing so.

Duncan: Not enough suppliers supplying quality French ingredients and it’s too expensive so it puts chefs off from purchasing.