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20 Apr 2010
Where will the next step in the culinary whirlwind take us? From bubbling liquid hydrogen molecular delicacies to Japanese robotic chefs, it's a very difficult journey to navigate. One point which will remain clear though is the emphasis on the use of excellent produce. Being from North America, I've always seen New York as the source of the next stage of culinary evolution: the '70's brought specialty mustards, green peppercorns, Hunan and Szechuan cuisines, fresh pastas, kiwi fruit and Nouvelle Cuisine. In the '80s we had blackened redfish, free-range chicken, extra virgin olive oil, arugula, cilantro, and mesclun and fingerling potatoes. Into the 90s and we had hanger steak, Kobe beef, lamb shanks, heirloom tomatoes, beef cheeks and microgreens. The turn of the century was no less bizarre! foie gras-stuffed burgers, single origin dark chocolate, grass-fed beef and the return of 'real barbecue'. Now, and definitely due to the downturn in the global economy, there is a distinct return to simpler food with an emphasis on quality locally grown ingredients. Chefs are now crazed on making their own noodles, having their own herb gardens and curing their own meats. It's all about hand-crafted, fully ripened and flavorful base ingredients, put together simply to enjoy. There is no need to have to conduct a mental inventory to figure out the ingredients used on a plate, marvel over a preparation technique that you don't even understand, or puzzle over a dubious flavor combination. If you enjoy the flavor of a tomato then what better way to experience it than to slice a fully ripened, juicy heirloom tomato and sprinkle it with some crushed pepper, sea salt and olive oil? And of course Alice Waters' influence can still be felt. Chef, author, and the proprietor of Chez Panisse, she is a pioneer of a culinary philosophy that maintains that cooking should be based on the finest and freshest seasonal ingredients that are produced sustainably and locally. She is a passionate advocate for a food economy that is 'good, clean, and fair.' Over the course of nearly forty years, Chez Panisse has helped create a community of scores of local farmers and ranchers whose dedication to sustainable agriculture assures the restaurant a steady supply of fresh and pure ingredients. Her philosophy is being followed and acted upon more and more these days. The bottom line is not to get too complicated. Simply use the freshest and most flavorful produce available, and serve it so you can still recognize what it is. You can't lose.