Rowe's dishes are influenced by popular international dishes but given an Ottoman twist which she captured in her book Purple Citrus and Sweet Perfume.
Bold ambition
And she is not stopping there. She promises that the ingredients incorporated in her menu will be based on seasonal ingredients available locally.
“I’m not going to be putting monkfish and sole on the menu. I’m not interested. I want to do everything that is available locally. I want to really clamp down on the carbon footprint — I don’t want to import,” she says.
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She’s not fussy as to whether she opens in a hotel or a mall — both would work equally well she believes. What she does believe is important for any new opening is finding a partner “who will do it justice”, and who believes in the brand. In a hotel her concept might be presented as fine-dining but would still be “democratically priced,” she insists. In a mall-based environment it would be more casual.
“The sector I’m targeting is ‘smart-casual’,” says Rowe. “The global dining sector is moving towards this.”
From the cultural challenges, to staffing challenges, she’s aware life would have been a lot easier sticking to what she knew at Quince. But who wants easy? Her one area of focus is staff. While she plans to bring a few over from London, 90% of them will be sourced locally.
I’m curious to find out what she makes of the staff retention problems in this industry.
From staff to family
“The problem is the lack of empowerment. I was very close with my team in Quince and they became like my family. I want the same with my team here. I intend to make them believe this is the best place to work, by making them feel appreciated — that’s something money can’t buy.”
She makes reference to Okku where it is visible to her the staff “feel valued”.
“They are looked after, they are happy — my waiter was like a human fireball with eyes at the back of his head. It is like Nobu in London, everybody wants to be a waiter there because they are treated well. The tips are amazing because the service is phenomenal,” she says.
If there is one thing that I can take away from my meeting with this fascinating chef it is her wholehearted attitude to succeed.
Being one of a very limited pool of women in this industry, she knows she’s got a bit of a fight on her hands but promises to throw every ounce of energy into proving it can be done.
A Man's World?
“The chef world is a male dominated one; if you want to succeed you have to operate like a man. I have every intention of really showing women they could run a restaurant. I’m keen on encouraging local female potential but ones that are really passionate, people that see themselves here in this industry.”
Her new launch has sparked expansion ideas already. Rowe is insistent she doesn't want just the one outlet and is keen on the idea of opening further outlets in the region.
“I foresee at least six in Dubai alone, not to mention other places in the world. I want to create the brand that prompts the US come to us and say ‘we want it in New York or Chicago.’
“It’s about thinking big. In this industry you have to be like a man to run a kitchen. Operate like a man yet be a lady,” she concludes.
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