Jean-Georges Vongerichten is late. As I wait in JG Dining Room and JG Kitchen for the chef whose restaurant in New York has won three Michelin stars consistently for 10 years now, I reflect on the Alsatian chef’s influence on the global culinary scene.
And 10 years ago, New York Magazine said this about Vongerichten, which holds true even today: “It’s probably safe to say that in the past two decades, no single chef has had more influence on the way New Yorkers dine out — or on the way other chefs cook and other restaurants look.”
It’s this influence Vongerichten no doubt was keen to bring to the Middle East with the opening of his first location in the UAE at the new hotel on the block, Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach’s Restaurant Village.
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Vongerichten’s name is against Market by Jean–Georges in Abu Dhabi and Doha; however, these are through consultative partnerships with Culinary Concepts Hospitality Group (CCHG) out of New York City.
With direct involvement from Vongerichten, JG Dining Room and JG Kitchen opened in June 2015, designed as two distinct spaces under one roof — the former a fine dining venue and the latter a more casual all–day restaurant. These two areas are connected by a lounge and bar.
When Vongerichten arrives, you realise it immediately. Now 58 years old, he looks many years younger and commands a high level of respect amongst the team, who all snap to attention when he walks in.
And he cannot apologise enough for the delay — Sundays, he says, are locked firmly in his mind as a holiday.
Vongerichten partnered with UAE–based Ginza Fine Dining (GFD) Group for the Dubai project, and one of the partners was a long-time customer of the Michelin–starred chef who suggested the move to Dubai. Once a location was found, Vongerichten was hooked.
“Knowing that Nusret and Coya are also here, I think we’re in good company at the first Four Seasons in Dubai.
“I couldn’t do a restaurant if I don’t have a local partner who could really manage it,” Vongerichten says. And so the professional relationship was born. Continuing on the theme of the people he works with, Vongerichten reveals he has forged long–term relationships with many people in the industry whom he works with regularly.
One of them is Sumeet Jhingan, who leads GFD Group’s operations, and was also part of the Jean–Georges New York team prior to moving Dubai. In addition, Vongerichten’s long-time partner in the bakery sector is Magnus Hansson, who flew down to Dubai for the opening. His son, Cedric Vongerichten, also a chef, was present too. Also a part of the project was French designer Gwenael Nicolas, who lives in Japan and has worked with Vongerichten before.