Can you describe your journey in the F&B industry?
I started when I was 17 years old and went from kitchen to kitchen. There have been high-profile restaurants – I was in Noma, then my own restaurant RM, then Acme in New York. It was only when I opened Restaurant MR, a 25-seater, that I truly found what my style was. I had no partners, so I learned how to work by myself.
I cook in the same style I’ve always cooked in. Back in 2000 everyone was inspired by elBulli but I have always been inspired by nature. It was at Noma that I realised that I wanted to use local produce and be true to nature. I tend to opt for plant-based menus — I myself eat vegan on weekdays and go pescatarian on weekends. I always look at vegetables as the best base of a dish. We could use better products if we only used meat once a week — the amount of money we spend on meat could contribute to buying better and fresher vegetables.
Can you explain what makes Nordic cuisine stand out?
Nordic cuisine is about cooking where you are and using the freshest in-season produce from that area. For me, it is very feminine. The dishes are light and use less of a cream base, using more vinegar, and of course lots of foraging. I enjoy exploring nature and discovering new tastes that I then champion through local and seasonal vegetables to emphasise the human connection to land through food.
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One of your many career highlights is co-founding Noma; why do you think it found such success?
We knew when we were opening Noma that we had something special. I was lucky to be a part of it. The real man responsible for the success was René Redzepi. Noma became a success because it was doing something so different at the time. It could have been a failure, but everyone was willing to take risks and was ready for failure. It was all about timing — Noma opened at a time when the world was ready for it.
Why did you choose to move to New York and stay there?
I was doing a lot of speaking appearances, and I went to New York for Omnivore Food Festival.
I was out for a meal during the trip and I wasn’t really familiar with the tipping system in the US. When the bill came, I saw ‘10 % tax included’ and I assumed this was the tip, so I paid and left the restaurant. The waiter came running out after me and asked if everything was OK with the meal and the service. When I realised what had happened, I was so embarrassed, especially being in the same industry. Because of my accent, the waiter asked where I was from and when I said Denmark, he commented that the best restaurant in the world was there, referring to Noma… Someone else from the group mentioned I’d worked there and the waiter said that the owner of the restaurant we’d just dined in was opening up a new restaurant around the corner and that I should be a part of it.
I came on-board as a consultant, and four years later I am still in the States preparing to open my own restaurant…
…the one in Williamsburg? Can you share more details about that?
It’s been in the works for about two years and we’re hoping to open in June. Williamsburg is the same rental prices as Manhattan, but you get much better space for what you pay.
The concept is fire and ice. It’s more like a kitchen with a restaurant inside of it. The idea is to turn the concept of a traditional dining experience in a restaurant on its head — instead you will be dining in a big kitchen. There will be lots of raw food and everything that is cooked or heated, will be done over fire.
Describe your ideal day, in terms of what you would eat?
On weekdays I start with oatmeal, and on weekends I eat eggs for breakfast. Lunch is mostly pasta. For dinner I eat sushi on weekends, and on weekdays I like salads.
If you weren’t a chef, you’d be...
…Probably a lifestyle photographer.
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