Chef interview: Alfredo Russo

Alfredo Russo opened his first restaurant, Dolce Stil Novo, at the age of 22 in Italy [Photo: Ajith Narendra/ITP Images].

Michelin-starred chef Alfredo Russo participated in the Dubai Food Festival and Shaheen Nouman discovered his take on the region’s culinary scene and what it takes to succeed

How did you get into the kitchen?
I found my passion for cooking at the tender age of 13, when I helped out in the kitchens of local restaurants. After completing hotel management school, I apprenticed at three different Michelin-starred restaurants in the Piedmont region of Italy. I have been in the kitchen ever since.

Can education make up for lack of natural culinary skills?
Cooking is very technical. It’s not only about being creative. Through education and dedication you master the craft. Of course, the talent that you are born with determines your ability, which sets one chef apart from another; otherwise, everybody would have three Michelin stars!

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Most memorable cooking experience?
The food festival at the UN Palace in New York. That was the culinary introduction to all delegates from around the world about flavours and tastes from Piedmont. Not only was it quite the experience, but it was fantastic to be there when these introductions were made, and to be part of the team. I had a great time with the event, and it was a privilege and an honour to be involved.

Your thoughts on the region’s culinary scene?
The culinary scene in Dubai is ever evolving and at a rapid pace. There are new restaurants opening up all the time, which makes it more competitive from an operator’s perspective, but more interesting for the consumer. There is a huge and wide offering available, and there appears to be a big demand for established, well-known brands from overseas. Dubai still has some way to go to catch up with other culinary capitals, such as Paris, London and New York, but it is definitely on the way there.

Do you think Italian cuisine is authentically represented in the region?
Italian cuisine is growing a lot in the region. There are important chefs represented in the market. At the same time, there is a fast growing availability of Italian ingredients, which gives the opportunity to be authentic and to offer more variety. This creates a genuine Italian offering in the region. However, the diners of Dubai do not look for the same things as the diners of Italy — people in Italy do not go to a restaurant for lasagne, whereas in Dubai they might. So although the market is getting more authentic, it will never be the same as back home.

How would you describe your cooking style?
My style is all about simplicity, and not overcomplicating a plate with too many ingredients, too many flavours, too much mixing and matching that often doesn’t work. Too many chefs try to be clever and overcomplicate a situation and the palate does not react well to it.

What’s your least favourite ingredient to work with, and why?
I don’t like working with garlic, believe it or not. For me it is not easily digested and it can easily overpower a taste.

How important is innovation in a chef’s life?
You have to innovate if you want to learn, develop and grow as a chef, as well as make sure that your food remains at the level that you want it to be. Technology in the kitchen gives you more possibilities, as well as more safety.

Advice to young chefs?
Work hard and discipline yourself. Too many young chefs want it all these days and they want it now. They want the Michelin star, the endorsement deal, the book deal et cetera, but what they don’t realise is how much they have to work for it and how much discipline that requires. As a chef, all you have is your reputation and you have to build and maintain it, and that comes from years of dedication and sometimes blood, sweat and tears, as they say! Find your path, define your goal and stick to it. Keep working at it until you get there, and once you get there, keep working some more, but do also make sure you take the time to enjoy yourself every now and then. And remember one thing: your restaurant is for your guests and nothing else; not for the stars, not for the books. Always remain committed to your guests, and they will remain committed to you.